Eos 2005 Late Harvest Moscato

I recently had the opportunity to try a wine that is gaining popularity and acclaim from several critics, namely Wine Enthusiast. While always skeptical of wine reviews in particular, I was attending a dinner and needed a wine with widespread appeal. I decided on the 2005 Eos late harvest Moscato, Tears of Dew. For those of you who know you’re Greek mythology, you will recognize that Eos is the Goddess of the Dawn. Greek myth says that Eos causes the morning dew by crying over the death of her sons, Memnon (killed by Achilles) and Emathion (killed by Hercules). The modern, winemaking Eos has experienced far greater prosperity recently as this vintage of Tears of Dew stands as the latest of several to consistently gain widespread approval.

I however am usually pretty critical of sweeter wines. Winemakers seem to ignore the tremendous potential of these wines, choosing to focus on an explosion of sweetness and fruit at the beginning. The result is a wine that pleases individuals looking for “sweet and tasty” wine and fails to provide any complexity or intriguing finish. Eos, however, creates wine that produces the classic appeal of a Moscato while considering the diversity of the flavor profile and finish.

The Background: Established in 1996 by the Arciero Family, the Vern Underwood Family and Kerry Vix, the company was named Eos because of their practice of “dawn harvesting” grapes. The 700-acre vineyard is located in Paso Robles, California and overlooked by winemaker, Leslie Melendez. Today, Eos produces several wines with a food-friendly philosophy that produces wine “as rich in texture as they are in fruit”.

The Drink: With a residual sugar of 21.4%, the wine meets its sweet expectations, and has an n alcohol level of 9.1%. After a ten-month fermentation in stainless steel barrels, the nose of the wine opens with apricot, peaches, and subtle pineapple. On the palate the fruit is intense but transitions into floral and subtle honey flavors complemented by an extremely smooth texture. The finish is extensive and maintains the flavors of the wine well.

The Verdict: Don’t share it! I loved this wine so much that I regretted bringing it to a dinner party, especially at its small 375 ml size. Sadly, I was only able to have one glass and was left wanting more. Moreover, when I returned to the store I purchased the wine at, I found that they had exhausted their supply. If you get an opportunity to try this wine or see a bottle, purchase it. If you buy wine of the internet put this one near the top of your list. It is no bargain, mine was $25, but the moderate pricing paired with the wine’s quality make it a steal in my book.

2007 San Francisco Spirits Competition

Recently, the 2007 San Francisco Sprites Competition (SFSC) was held (results - www.sfspiritscomp.com). With over 700 entrants, this year’s contest was the largest to date. Unfortunately, the competition seems be losing any objectivity that had previously existed. Despite the involvement of some industry-renowned organizers and extremely qualified judges, the competitive nature of the event seems to have diminished. The marketability of the medals awarded at the SFSC is being translated into instant credibility in a real competition - the bars and shelves of liquor stores. Participation, especially for a lesser-known or new spirit, can translate to instant notoriety.

Several recent spirits have capitalized on the potential of the SFSC. Wokka Saki, relatively new 80% vodka, 20% sake spirit, highlights the back-to-back double gold medals awarded to the spirit across on the front of its label, as do others. Granted, I am an enormous fan of Wokka Saki (and am even playing around with it in a new cocktail), but the meaning of the double gold medal, while always in doubt in a competition that seems just as content to showcase Diageo products, was damaged further in a year in which 27% more double gold medals were awarded than last year. As a side note, Diageo shockingly won the SFSC 2007 “Importer of the Year” award - also known as best corporate growth via the consumption of formerly independently-own distilleries.

However, the SFSC still manages to make a fundamental “Best in Show” decision for the categories of brandy, liqueur, whisky, and white (which seems overly broad). The competition also designates a top participant in each spirit category. Because of the value of the competition, these ultimate prizes could be viewed as the backbone of the entire event. While this too may be influenced by the weight of the parent company (like Tanqueray winning the top gin over Citadelle, Hendrick’s, and small-batch independent, North Shore), these results are a preview of the evolutions, or stagnations, which will control the industry.

It would be nice however to see more small-batch distilleries in competitions like these. Among the growth of companies like Diageo, the independence of the entrepreneurial distiller is fundamental to maintaining the growth, creativity, and competitiveness within the industry. The SFSC is the most comprehensive spirits competition, but the results should be taken within an appropriate frame of reference.

All criticism aside; how can I get a position as a judge?
Free booze = double gold to me!

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