Top

Kentucky Distillery Tours Continued - Buffalo Trace

May 29, 2007

I wanted to get back to discussing the tours that I went on before I left the Midwest as being here feels like a more appropriate place to write about them. The Buffalo Trace Distillery Tour was a little different than all of the rest for one simple reason: I was the only one on the tour.

I arrived at the Buffalo Trace Distillery early in the morning because it was closest to my hotel, opened sooner than the others, and would help me get to the other tours on time. This may be why I am the only one who showed up for the tour; people generally don’t engage in tasting this early, but hey, they were ready for those of us who do! This individual attention allowed me to ask several questions, and I probably had more inquiries while on this tour than the others because of the wide range of products that are made at the site. Here’s a list of some of the products that are made at the Buffalo Trace Distillery:

Whiskeys -

Ancient Age – 5 & 10 Year Old; 80, 86, 90 and 100 Proof
Benchmark – “Rye Recipe”; 80 Proof
Blanton’s – Single Barrel; “Rye Recipe”; 93 Proof
Buffalo Trace – 9 Year Old
Eagle Rare – Single Barrel; 10 Year Old; 90 Proof
Eagle Rare – 17 Year Old
Elmer T. Lee – Single Barrel; 10 Year Old; 90 Proof
George T. Stagg – 15 Year Old
Hancock’s Reserve – Single Barrel; 8 Year Old; 88.9 Proof
Old Charter – 8, 10, 12, & 13 Year Old; 80, 86, & 90 Proof
Rock Hill Farms – “Rye Recipe”; 100 Proof
Sazerac– Rye Whiskey; 6 & 9 Year Old
Thomas H. Handy – Rye Whiskey
Van Winkle – 10, 12, 15, 20, & 23 Year Old
W. L. Weller – “Wheated Bourbon”; 7, 10, & 12 Year Old; 90, 100, & 107 Proof

Others –

Rain Vodka – Organic; 7 Times Distilled
Regan’s Orange Bitters

I think I got all of that information right; I used a pamphlet that I received at the tour to make sure I got everything and didn’t include any in formation that wasn’t on the packet because I wanted to make sure I was accurate. The distillery also makes some other products I think, but I can’t remember which they were. Nevertheless, the most impressive thing about this incomplete list is the amount of creativity and diversity that is produced at the Buffalo Trace Distillery. It is truly a site of innovation.

While the distillery is certainly a place of varied production, this makes touring the multiple processes of productions more difficult. Instead of being permitted to tour the actual distillation equipment and facilities, I was shown a video that didn’t really detail the distillation process and would have fit as a generic introduction at any distillery. While this was a bit disappointing, such an approach might be beneficial for some people as a first tour because this video was simple and would be helpful for those who are unfamiliar with whiskey production.

The Warehouse

The highlight of the tour was clearly the warehouse, which Buffalo Trace really uses to impact the taste of their whiskeys. I was told that the middle of three floors at Buffalo Trace’s main warehouse is where the most important whiskeys are stored. The middle floor experiences the most flux in temperature and humidity which increases the potential for the whiskey to move in and out of the wood. The warehouse was also extremely old and had endured several floods from the nearby Kentucky River as evidenced by the waterlines which were about 15 feet up the walls.

The warehouse additionally held testing barrels which were being used to test different varieties of developmental whiskeys. Seeing those barrels just makes you wonder what could be in store for us next! New ryes? Another wheated bourbon? Who knows? The warehouse also, despite being one of the oldest in Kentucky, was the best kept out of those that I toured. The barrels showed the greatest integrity and were stored in clean warehouse which you could tell was attended to with the greatest detail.

The Bottling Plant

Buffalo Trace has several different bottling plants, but I was allowed access into one of the bottling plants where they were hand bottling Blanton’s and Eagle Rare 17 Year Old. More than anything that I learned at the bottling plant, I remember the people the most. They were the nicest group of people by far that I interacted with at any of the tours. There were about 30 people in the plant, and every single one of them said hello to me as I passed. Yes, this was probably a result of me being at the tour by myself, but that type of hospitality really made my experience so much more enjoyable. The bottling plant tour also allowed me to see the proof regulation of the whiskies which was done before bottling. Several of the bourbons were held in tanks at different temperature and my guide really emphasized the difference in the aroma of the whiskies which were at different temperatures, which one can really notice when drinking whiskey on the rocks or straight.

The Tasting Room

I had hoped that I would get to taste some Thomas Handy or something in the tasting room, but obviously that was expecting way too much. Instead, I got to taste Buffalo Trace Bourbon and Eagle Rare Single Barrel. I had previously had each of these whiskies before so I really wasn’t that interested in the tasting, but I was so much more conscious of the aroma when tasting the bourbons after being around the smell of bourbon which just engrosses you in the warehouse and bottling plant. Plus, who turns down free whiskey? The gift shop also had almost every bottle as far as I could tell that they produced on the site, including some Rain and Regan’s orange bitters, which I picked up. I wanted to get some other stuff (and now regret that I didn’t take the opportunity), but I was trying to make this a budget trip, so I didn’t want to get carried away that early in the day.

The tour was one of my favorites because of the people at the distillery. My tour guide and the people working at the distillery really made my experience memorable, and I would highly recommend going on the tour. The grounds of the property are beautiful and surrounded by history, and the Buffalo Trace Distillery truly represents the best of Kentucky values which is reflected in the products they create. It made the whole trip worthwhile, but after leaving Buffalo Trace I headed directly (well not “directly” – I got lost) for some Woodford Reserve. Be sure to check back soon for my review of this tour and some information on Woodford Reserve.

Kentucky Bourbon Distillery Tours – Makers Mark

May 10, 2007

Before I left the area, I wanted to make sure that I did something I had always wanted to do – tour the distilleries in Kentucky. Yes, I know that an hour south of Chicago isn’t really “the area”, but hey, it was close enough to count. So, I completed my Tuesday duties, packed up my bags, drove until 2:00am to get there, slept for a couple of hours, and got up early to get in as many tours as possible. Despite my efforts, I was only able to visit four distilleries (three and half really as touring had ended at Jim Beam when I arrived). I also visited the Buffalo Trace Distillery, the Labrot and Graham Distillery (Woodford Reserve), and Makers Mark Distillery. I would have liked to visit others which were close by and easily accessible; however, I only had one day and chose these because of advice from a friend who had taken a similar trip and my own personal interests.

Overall, each of the tours was awesome and provided its own unique contribution to my understanding of Kentucky’s magical elixir. Knowledge aside, the sites were amazing and would have been worth the trip alone. I want to recap each of the tours I went on over the next few days. I would highly recommend taking a similar trip if you are slightly interested; you will not be disappointed. I would also advise making more time than I did for the trip so you don’t have to make the choices I did. Also, don’t try and drive back to Illinois by yourself after standing on your feet all day on a few hours of sleep. You will be forced to consume the horrible beverage that is Red Bull, which may just ruin your entire day of tasting.

MAKER’S MARK –

Maker’s Mark was definitely the most interactive tour that I took today. While it was less informative than others (and this may be because it was the last one I took and was ignoring the “how whisky is made” lecture all over again), I got to do things like taste from the fermentation tanks and dip my own bottle of Maker’s. The site itself was also the most distinct distillery I visited. While other distilleries focused on preserving the historical elements of the sites (which I definitely support), each of the buildings on the Maker’s properties is painted a dark brown color and accented with red, representing the trademark wax color of Maker’s Mark. Even the shutters on the buildings are given the Maker’s touch with cutouts of the bottle shape. There were four major parts of the tour: the distillery, the printing room, the bottling plant, and the warehouse.

The Distillery

The distillery entrance is extremely impressive. The stills brightly welcome you and the aroma of the fermentation slaps you right in the face. Maker’s distinguishing feature is the use of wheat, making it a “wheated” bourbon. One of the requirements of bourbon is that it must be made of at least 51% corn, but some amount of rye is also usually used. Maker’s Mark cuts back on the rye and uses wheat, which creates and milder, sweeter whisky.

Maker’s Mark also uses a sour mash, meaning that a portion of the fermented mash from the previous batch is added to each new batch to create consistency. Maker’s Mark actually let us taste from the fermentation tanks. We were able to taste from a new batch an old batch. The difference in taste from the three day fermentation process was incredible. The new batch was very bland, while the older batch was very sour. This was one of the best parts of the tours today because it really helped me to understand the fermentation’s impact from a taste perspective, an opportunity you just don’t get everyday. The fermentation process was also happening live as we were able to look down into the huge cypress fermentation tanks. I shot a quick video of one of the more active tanks to show what this looked like; you can see it here.

After exploring the fermentation tanks, the distillation process was on display in the stills. These stills were so shiny and designed to show the clear color of the flowing whisky. The distillery was the best part of the tour by far!

The Printing Room

This room was pretty much a huge gimmick. The room does hold a 100 year-old printing press which is used to make each of the labels for Maker’s Mark bottles, but the existence of the press seemed to be used only to reaffirm the “handmade” philosophy of Maker’s Mark. Interestingly however, Maker’s mark actually seemed to have less employees and more technology than any other distillery. Except for this printing room, I got less of a “handmade” feel from this distillery than any other, even the Labrot and Graham Distillery which is very proud of its new technology. They did give us our own label though; I’ll always take a free souvenir, even if it isn’t much.

The Bottling Plant

Again, the “handmade” approach was gone. I expected a hand-bottling process like the one I saw at Buffalo Trace, but instead, the bottling plant was very quick and modern. Maker’s does a ton of business though, so this should be expected, but for all the talk about the hand-dipping process, I think I just expected to see more individual attention. It doesn’t really matter; it just seemed different than the rhetoric that Maker’s Mark likes to profess.

The dipping process required the workers to work very quickly to keep up with the assembly line of bottles coming. After dipping, the bottle were passed through a cooling box of fans and boxed. If you go, you will notice that Maker’s Mark kind of goes overboard with its waxing though. I know its your trademark look, but nearly everything in the gift shop and everywhere else was dipped in that red wax! If you want a wax-dipped hat, you can get one. I would have had trouble finding something without wax if I tried! Also, I don’t know about your anal perceptions, but I really hate Maker’s bottles with the long wax strands hanging all over the place. They tend to bow out and look sloppy. The simpler ones just look better and would cost less in wax cost (not that they are concerned obviously). I now have a face to blame when I get a sloppy one. This lady was waxing these bottles like crazy - today’s batch will have wax all over the place! But, hey she had so much to keep up with; you can’t really blame her.

The Warehouse

The warehouse was like all of the others – impressive. Even looking at the warehouse from the outside and inside, it is hard to imagine just how much whisky is in there. The barrels are so heavy, and there are so many floors of them. The design of each of the warehouses is probably the most impressive characteristic of these structures because they take advantage of every square inch. The Maker’s warehouse seemed cooler than the others, and consequently, the aroma of the whisky wasn’t as strong. The warehouse also seemed dirtier/older, and the barrels seemed to have more leaking problems. The warehouse actually made me think twice about Maker’s quality. Not only did the warehouse seem less maintained, we were also told that only one barrel is tasted from each batch to determine if aging is complete. Each other distillery individually tasted each barrel, even if they come from the same batch.

Despite some of my critical points, the Maker’s tour was extremely unique and gave me access to things that I will rarely have the opportunity to do. I think that this tour is one that you definitely need to go on if you want to visit the distilleries. As for the Maker’s Mark product, the tour actually made me think less of the whisky, which I don’t think is the tour’s intention. The entire process seemed less careful than the others. Part of this was because of specifics I pointed out, but overall it was just a feeling I got more than anything else. Either way, I like the end product and am sure I will continue to drink more in the future. Next up: the Buffalo Trace Distillery…

Goose Island Reserve - Part 3, Bourbon County Stout

May 9, 2007

Price – 19.99 (4 Pack)

ABV – 11.0%

Alcohol by Weight – 9.0%

Hop Bitterness (IBU) – 60, High

Color (SRM) – Midnight

Continuing the series of reviewing Goose Island’s reserve beers, it is time to look at the beast of the series, the Bourbon County Stout. I wanted to review this beer since I spent all day today looking at barrels in Kentucky. The Bourbon County Stout is a huge intimidating stout, and it doesn’t disappoint. As we will do throughout the series, here is Greg Hall’s label description:

“I really wanted to do something special for our 1000th batch at the original brewpub. Goose Island could have thrown a party. But we did something better. We brewed a beer. A really big batch of stout—so big, the malt was coming out of the top of the mash tun. After fermentation, we brought in some bourbon barrels that aged the stout. One hundred days later, BOURBON COUNTY STOUT was born. A liquid as dark and dense as a black hole with thick foam the color of a bourbon barrel. The nose is an intense mix of charred oak, chocolate, vanilla, caramel and smoke. One sip has more flavor than your average case of beer. It overpowers anything in the room. People have even said it’s a great cigar beer. But I have yet to try a cigar that can stand up.”

~Greg Hall, Brewmaster

This beer is one of the few that one will think back on as a privilege (and it better be for the price). When you pour the beer, you immediately question whether you grabbed a beer or a weird bottle of some type of oil. The beer is immensely thick and extremely black. If I didn’t know it was a beer, I wouldn’t be able to pick it out of a lineup full of Penzoil because the thin tan head dies quickly. The intimidating feature of the beer’s appearance continues through all elements of the beer. The aroma is enormous. The bourbon is definitely noticeable, but the nose also brings forth burnt toast and coffee. The beer’s taste again shows the bourbon, but the alcohol is unexpectedly submissive leaving flavors chocolate, caramel, and coffee. Even though the alcohol is well hidden, the beer’s flavors are so intense that this beer is probably a “once-a-nighter” for most. However, the experience is so fulfilling that once is enough.

The use of bourbon barrels in the microbrew industry is escalating quickly. While I have been unable to taste any other similar beers to this point, I think that Goose Island has definitely established a bias in this drinker. The beer achieved its goals so well and was so impressive that I have to recommend it to anyone who even moderately enjoys stouts. Be prepared though – the beer itself is drunk on bourbon!

The Top Ten Cocktails of All Time

May 7, 2007

Hooray! Let the debate begin! I was talking with one my friends lately about one of my other loves, baseball, and we were trying to rank and compare Roger Clemens with the game’s other great pitchers. Immediately, we ran into some problems, especially since I was upset about the Yankees stealing Clemens from my Astros! One of the problems was that it was difficult to compare pitchers from different eras (higher mounds, the steroid era, more and less competitive periods, etc.). When I got home to write for the blog, I realized that trying to put together a top ten list for cocktails shared similar problems.

How can one possibly compare pre-Prohibition cocktails to those after Prohibition? Additionally, how can one accurately consider the full scope of this issue when the history of older cocktails remains lost in the intoxicated past? I openly subscribe to the classic cocktail method, but is it correct to deem one approach correct and the sugary approach the act of a cocktail Lucifer? Yes…no…ok yes, but what makes the classic cocktail greater than others and are there some modern cocktails that qualify. These issues are difficult and debatable, but that’s what makes this subject interesting and perfect material for a blog. Feel free to argue and debate; here’s my list…

Wait, wait, criteria for the list? I am not sure. I tried to be less elitist and consider widespread appeal as well as drink quality. Also, the history of the cocktail was influential in my decision, particularly the influence on the evolution of the cocktail and their utilized spirits. I made some different choices and refused the temptation to make a case for some of my classic, but lesser known, favorites. Ok, now we’re ready!

1. The Martini

I decided to throw Dave Letterman aside and start at the top. Why? Because it is unusual in any top ten list to find such a unanimous decision for the “greatest”. The martini is undisputedly the greatest cocktail of all time. It has become an iconic representation of the bar! Its name carries so much weight that, for many a misguided soul, any cocktail served in a cocktail glass has become a “martini”. Can you imagine an army of sweet “apple cosmopolitans” swarming the local bar’s menu? Hands down the martini is number one! Even though it has been misconstrued and victimized by vodka’s onslaught, the martini remains the greatest cocktail of all time with the greatest ingredients, gin, vermouth, and bitters!

2. The Sazerac

While no longer as popular, it is difficult to ignore the impact of this cocktail. Born in New Orleans, the Sazerac’s history is so closely intertwined, both in proximity and disputed history, with Peychaud’s bitters. Some argue that Peychaud is the father of the cocktail, which would have never been invented without bitters. This is a debate that is beyond the scope of this top ten list, but any applicable discussion shows why the Sazerac is one of the greatest. The Sazerac’s recipe is also disputable, but how can you not rank a drink so closely related to origins of the cocktail this high?

3. The Margarita

As a classic cocktail fan, it is hard to overstep some of my favorites, but this is where I have to try and come up with a credible, objective list. No other cocktail has ever done more for its principle spirit than the margarita has. The popularity of tequila would have never happened if it wasn’t for a worldwide desire for the margarita in all of its horrible and wonderful forms. If you think this cocktail’s stock is rated too highly, watch tequila grow over the next few decades! When the emergence of the world’s next great spirit becomes clear, let me know and thank the margarita.

4. The Manhattan

The Manhattan is one of the first drinks bartenders learn to make and is widely recognized around the world. While the transition from its rye whisky origins during Prohibition may have limited its thoroughbred appeal, what classic wasn’t affected in this way? The Manhattan incorporates bitters, so it gets bonus points (go away bias). But seriously, the Manhattan is widely recognized among aficionados and non-experts alike, and it perfectly exhibits one of the most important ingredients in cocktail history, sweet vermouth. Number four seems about right.

5. The Mai Tai

The Mai Tai gets its name on the list because of its dominance of the Tiki period of cocktails. While this era may not be the most nostalgic time in cocktail history, it is far too important to ignore. Additionally, the Tiki period helped a whole new group of people learn to love the cocktail. The Mai Tai is the most important drink to come out of this period, and when it is made correctly (if you’re thinking grenadine, try again), is an amazing drink!

6. The Sidecar

Number six – really? Absolutely, and not just because it is one of my favorites. Sometimes dismissed as a “period piece” (William Grimes words from Straight Up or On the Rocks), the sidecar is a wonderful exhibit of one of the greatest spirits ever – brandy! Cocktails that use brandy have lost popularity recently, but the spirit’s place in history is important. Consequently, the cocktail’s that use brandy have to be given credit. The Sidecar also uses Cointreau, another important cocktail ingredient that continues to dominate the cocktail scene today. Despite the slide of brandy cocktails, the Sidecar also seems to be one of the only making a comeback in both the mainstream and enthusiast communities. Specifically, cocktail enthusiasts are constantly tinkering with this cocktail with new ingredients such as lavender. If nothing else, you have to appreciate a cocktail that advocates the correct position of the driver through the simple use of its name!

7. The Gin and Tonic

Ok, I know, I know. But think about it. The gin and tonic is the result of British colonial efforts to fight malaria. Quinine, an ingredient in tonic water, was found to be beneficial in curing the disease, so the gin and tonic was born to make tonic water friendlier. Additionally, gin’s medicinal origins make this cocktail an important part of not only cocktail history, but medical history as well. With such important historical roles, gin and tonic together forms a dynamic cocktail contestant in the contest for greatest cocktail ever despite their elementary mixture. Sorry Ghandi, but seven is where the G&T belongs!

8. The Old Fashioned

Uhm…it has a glass named after it. Ok, bad reason, but it does deserve respect for a couple of reasons. First, the Old Fashioned is the truest test for a bartender, and consequently, it is one of the most ruined drinks in bartending. Nevertheless, the cocktail consists of only one type of spirit – whisky. It incorporates bitters and sugar (muddling of fruit debate/preference aside), and it is one of the most recognized cocktails of all time. Simple and to the point, just what the phrase old-fashioned means!

9. The Cosmopolitan

The cosmopolitan may have more American appeal, as cranberry juice can be difficult to find in some countries. But, this cocktail really is the only modern classic. Great name, distinct recognizable look, and, when made correctly, balances its ingredients well without overemphasizing juice or sugary content. It stands out from the crowd in modern cocktails times and has enormous recognition and appeal. It has to make the list.

10. The Bloody Mary

Everyone likes it their way. This cocktail is important because it really embraces each individual’s personal touch, and unlike other cocktails, the variety of the Bloody Mary has become a point of interest, not debate. This is the nature of the drink. Somehow, despite all of the controversy surrounding consumption, cocktail recipes, and appropriate drinking settings and times, everyone accepts the Bloody Mary. It may not have the most influential history, but it is an important drink and hits the spot in a way no other cocktail can.

There it is the top ten cocktail list. I am not the first to think of this idea, so be sure to check out some others; here are a few:

-DC Drinks – Apparently a dead blog now, which is a shame, but here is there “drink these or don’t come back” list.
-Martini Republic – Another blog that appears to have passed over the past few days. What a loss; I really enjoyed this blog, be sure to check the site to see where everyone is writing now! Either way, I found Joseph Mailander’s top ten of 2006 list here.
-Jimmy Patrick from Jimmy’s Cocktail Hour and Darcy O’Neil from the Art of Drink also have top ten lists, but Jimmy’s list and Darcy’s list each rank the most common drinks that these bartenders make.

Be sure to check at all these lists (there may be more out there I didn’t name as well); let them soak in and respond with what you think! I’d really like to get more comments on my blog. I think that the benefits of the online cocktail community come from discussion, so I thought that this might make a good icebreaker.

Imbibe Magazine is a Bartender’s Dream

May 6, 2007

I am kind of busy right now with the move, that whole finishing the Master’s degree thing, and closing up a VERY busy weekend at the bar, so I haven’t been able to write the types of daily post I strive for. However, despite all of the busy things going on, I have made time to read my favorite bi-monthly periodical. That’s right; the new issue of Imbibe magazine is out. Other cocktail bloggers with far more credibility than I have pointed out the magazine, so I am clearly being repetitive here, but I just wanted to give it my own nod of approval, if it counts for anything. If nothing else, it is my blog’s compliment to the magazine.

If you aren’t reading Imbibe, you need to start. The magazine is full of great information, common and obscure, but, what I really like is the variety of the topics. The magazine focuses on cocktails, spirits, beer, wine, and coffee; however, the magazine also reviews things like juicers and coffee grinders. I haven’t subscribed to Imbibe yet because I have been waiting for the move, but I know I have been able to find it a Barnes & Noble, so it is definitely out there! Some of the people recommending this magazine also have some stake in it. I am definitely not in that elite group, but I like to tell people about topical things I enjoy on this blog, so there you have it!

You can find Imbibe’s site here; or their blog here, which is also in my blogroll to your right. Here is a bad picture of the table of contents from the current magazine:

 

Last Day at the Bar

May 6, 2007

I just finished my last day at the bar on Saturday. I started working at the bar when it opened and have enjoyed watching it grow from infancy. The pleasure of interacting with a great group of co-workers and some fabulous guests is something that I will never forget and treasure. I hope that as time moves on each person that I had the opportunity to meet through the bar stays in touch. It is easy to forget what makes this industry great. We become caught up in the moment, ignoring the finality of the situation. However, eventually, we must confront our departure and recognize that it is time to move on. I am glad that in my moment of reflection, I realize that I made some lifelong friends and learned more about the bar business than at any other place I worked at. I just want to say thank you to all the people who collectively changed my life and shaped my future.

Gingerly Created Cocktails

May 4, 2007

Ginger has one of the most interesting histories of any spice. Believed to have originated in India, ginger evolved into a staple part of Asian cooking. The Chinese valued ginger as a cure for a variety of different ailments, but today ginger is predominantly only viewed as a cure for stomach problems. If you’re wondering, ginger cocktails will not prevent the stomach ailments caused by excessive consumption. However, the use of ginger in mixology can provide and outstanding dimension to your cocktails. Ginger syrup is an amazing way to add a spice element to your favorite drinks, and recently, mixologists have been capitalizing on the unique properities of ginger. I really enjoy ginger, so I thought I would discuss some of the cocktails that incorporate it in one way or another.

To begin however, knowing how to create ginger syrup can be a useful way to experiment with ginger in cocktails. Jeff Hollinger and Rob Schwartz describe the use ginger syrup as part of their Ginger Rollins cocktail in their recently released book The Art of the Bar. I would recommend picking up a copy of this book if you like to read cocktail books and experiment with newer cocktails created from the classics approach. Their recipe for ginger syrup is as follows:

“Ginger Syrup

2 ounces ginger, sliced thinly

1 cup sugar

1 ½ cup water

1 ½ teaspoons whole black peppercorns

Combine the ginger, sugar, water, and peppercorns in a medium saucepan over medium heat. Bring to a simmer, stirring until the sugar dissolves. Continue simmering for 30 to 40 minutes, or until the syrup smells very gingery. Remove from the heat and cool completely. Strain the syrup through a sieve, transfer to a bottle, and refrigerate for up to 2 weeks.”

You will notice that the additional use of whole black peppercorns helps to add an additional factor to the syrup. You can use other flavors as well in your ginger syrup (like split vanilla beans, which make an awesome addition); just make sure that the ginger is the focal point. If you want to start off to add ginger to your cocktails, stick with the ginger independently.

I like to use ginger syrup in my mojitos (in this syrup leave the vanilla out – it doesn’t work). Similarly, Hollinger and Schwartz combine their ginger syrup and mint in the Ginger Rollins.

“Ginger Rollins

8 to 12 mint leaves

½ ounce Ginger Syrup

1 ½ ounces gin

½ ounce fresh lime juice

Ginger ale

Lime wedge for garnish

Put the mint leaves in a pilsner or collins glass, cover with the syrup, and muddle lightly until the mint begins to release its aroma. Fill the glass with ice and add the gin and lime juice. Top with ginger ale. Using a bar spoon, stir the drink from the bottom up to mix. Garnish with the lime wedge.”

I made one of these the other day. Wow, it is a great drink! It exhibits all of the qualities of a wonderful cocktail and utilizes the ginger nicely, yet the use of ginger is not a new cocktail phenomenon. Jack Morgan created the Moscow Mule in 1941 at the Cock ‘N Bull restaurant; CocktailDB gives us the recipe:

Moscow Mule

Build

1 1/2 oz vodka (4.5 cl, 3/8 gills)

3/4 oz fresh lime juice (2 cl, 3/16 gills)

Add 1/2 lime shell in glass (1 1/2 oz, 4.5 cl, 3/8 gills)

Fill with ginger beer, ice

Serve in a copper mug (12.0 oz)

Another is the Presbyterian, or “Pres” for short. I’ve read several variations for how to make this drink and most include ginger ale. Dale DeGroff does not list ginger ale in his variation however using only club soda and sprite. I mention this only because in his book The Craft of the Cocktail he names the Presbyterian as his “mom’s favorite drink”. So, I think he would know something about it! Either way, most recipes look something like Gary Regan’s recipe in The Joy of Mixology:

Presbyterian

2 oz Straight Rye Whisky

1 ½ oz Club Soda

1 ½ oz Ginger Ale

1 Lemon Twist, for garnish

Serve in a highball glass

Today, most Presbyterians ignore the Rye Whisky in exchange for a more available product. However, the growth of rye whisky may change this. I’ve heard somewhere that the Press was initially created with scotch whisky and has the name Presbyterian because of the religious ties to that region, but I haven’t heard this explanation that frequently and don’t remember where I heard it. Lots of proof - great writing!

You will notice that the Moscow Mule uses ginger beer (but is frequently substituted for crappy available ginger ale) and the Press uses ginger ale. So, what’s the difference? Nothing really. Ginger beers generally have a stronger flavor and are hotter. Ginger ales are often more subtle and sweeter. Some producers of ginger beer claim the difference to be the fermentation process that some ginger beers go through, but not all ginger beers are fermented, so the distinction seems to be arbitrary. Try using ginger beers though because their properties are usually much more complex. There are very few quality products that bear the name ginger ale or ginger beer however, so choose wisely or it might ruin your experience. I enjoy Fentiman’s ginger beer, but the best option is to make your own. Paul over at the Cocktail Chronicles has a whole post on this issue, so be sure to check it out. It is REALLY informative and provides a recipe for ginger beer. The only problem with the homemade ginger beer is that it lacks carbonation. Fear not; the net-benefits of using the homemade approach will show in the flavor of your drink. Dale DeGroff also provides a homemade recipe in The Craft of the Cocktail:

Ginger Beer

2 ½ pounds gingerroot, peeled and roughly chopped

4 limes

¾ cup light brown sugar

Bring 2 gallons of water to a boil in a large pot, then remove from the flame. Meanwhile, pulse the ginger with a few drops of boiling water in a food processor until minced. Add the ginger to the hot water. With a spoon, remove the lime flesh and juice, and drop along with the peels into the water. Add the sugar, stir well, and cover for 1 hour. Strain through a fine chinois or cheesecloth and pour into nonplastic containers to cool. It will keep for a few weeks, but is best fresh; the ginger flavor diminishes over time.”

There are more recipes for homemade ginger beer out there, but these two should get you started. Gary Regan’s The Joy of Mixology provides a wonderful example of how to use ginger beer in the Bermudan drink, the Dark and Stormy

Dark and Stormy

2 ounces Gosling’s Black Seal rum

3 ounces ginger beer

1 lime wedge, for garnish

Serve in a highball glass

The Dark and Stormy works best with a homemade ginger beer because most bottled ginger beers are too weak to hold up to the Gosling’s Black Seal rum. It is another must-try cocktail!

Ginger is an amazing ingredient in cooking and cocktails. Everyone is partial to some spice or another, and I love ginger. It adds so much to cocktails and fills a common void in bartending, which ignores how spice can be incorporated into drinks. Ginger has been used for hundreds of years in several different manners; the cocktail might be the best yet!

Goose Island Reserve - Part 2, Demolition

May 3, 2007

Price – 11.99 (4 Pack)

ABV – 8%

Alcohol by Weight – 6.0%

Hop Bitterness (IBU) – 55, Medium

Color (SRM) – 5, Pale Honey

On each Goose Island Reserve label, Brewmaster Greg Hall provides a description of the beer and the story behind it. Each story is unique and shows the special care and attention that each beer in this series receives. I thought that it would be nice and informative to provide the label description for each beer as I review these fine products. Here is Demolition’s label –

“Back in the early 90’s, our landlord went bankrupt and they tore down the mall surrounding the original Goose Island Brewpub. Sure, we were still open, but who would know it with all the demolition going on. We had giant wrecking balls careening around, the walls were shaking, it was tough. We lost a good part of our business for a year, if not for the most loyal of our customers, Goose Island would have closed. To HONOR those BRAVE SOULS, we brewed a strong golden ale called DEMOLITION. It was so good and so popular, we’ve brewed it every year since (I even served it at my wedding!). It’s brewed with SAAZ and STYRIAN GOLDING HOPS for a grassy, citrus aroma and lots of the finest pale malt for a “honey” malt middle and intense flavor. Demolition tastes great on its own or with a plate of fresh oysters.”

~ Greg Hall, Brewmaster

This was the second of the Goose Island Reserve beers I tried. After tasting Matilda, I decided to pick up a couple more Goose Island Reserves from the store with a friend and see if they compared. Demolition destroyed any doubt that Matilda was a one hit wonder. Greg Hall’s description is dead on; plus he knows a whole lot more than me. But, I review beer on this blog, so here’s what I got…

The nose is dominantly malty though some citrus and grassy aromas came through as well. The beer’s color is a cloudy golden orange which provides a noticeable head that dies quickly, leaving no lace. The citrus flavors were again evident in the taste, and the hops were evident, but not overly stressed in the taste. The beer has a slight bitter taste and finishes with alcohol and citrus flavors. The citrus elements of the beer are the peaks of the taste, providing doses of acidity. If anything, the beer would improve from increased bitterness and less emphasis on the citrus flavors. However, this was the goal and, as is, fits nicely into the Reserve collection.

Demolition is one of the middle weights in the Goose Island Reserve series (yes, 8 percent is a middle weight when compared to the others). I really enjoyed the beer, but I think that I would like to have this one on tap at the Clybourn brewpub. The beer’s adaptation from the tap to the bottle seemed too apparent. This was especially notable in the beer’s head. Unfortunately, I don’t think I will get this chance to visit the brewpub as moving can be extremely time-consuming. Nevertheless, the beer is outstanding, and if I had access to it at all times would certainly give it plenty of attention.

I Love "The Raj"

May 2, 2007

I always try and provide unique information on this blog. These efforts generally direct me towards newer products or obscure, but important, information. In doing so, I hope to improve knowledge and help people to understand and create better cocktails. Additionally, one of the things I am learning about blogging is how much you can learn by investigating issues further in an effort to write better posts (the “Deadly Russian Vodka Crisis” post floored me when I was researching it). However, sometimes, you just want to talk about something that you love and want others to try as well.

I love gin. I love it on the rocks, with tonic, and mixed in my favorite cocktails. I enjoy all types of gin from those that manage to package pure juniper in a bottle to those that orchestrate a complex symphony of herbs and spices. However, if I had to pick just one gin to drink for the rest of my life, I would choose Old Raj. It is an amazing gin with so much to offer. If you have never tried it, you need to do so!

Old Raj is a Scottish dry gin that packs a punch. Unlike most gins, Old Raj carries an alcohol content of 55 percent which would seemingly threaten to cover the complexity of the spirit. However, the gin’s flavors are wonderfully extensive. The reason why I love Old Raj is because it combines so many different flavor types. Some gins (Citadelle is a good example) combine numerous ingredients, but the choices can be too similar, creating a gin with dominant herbal flavors for example. The result can be gins that are one-dimensional. Old Raj provides a gin with noticeable juniper, spices, herbs, and floral tones. The diversity of the flavors in Old Raj is unparalleled, but somehow manages to work together well. Most notable is the presence of saffron which not only gives Old Raj its yellow color, but also provides a trademark flavor.

The best attribute of Old Raj is that it is a universal gin. Sometimes, gin can work well in some cocktails and be horrible in others. Other gins work well independently, and some need to be mixed. Most importantly, certain gins are awesome in martinis, but other gins seem created for the “Postmodern Gin Movement”, which focuses on expanding gin beyond juniper and the spirit’s traditional use in martinis. I have created the term “Postmodern Gin Movement” since my last rant on Tanqueray Rangpur. I like it; you heard it here first. For more information on which gins work best in martinis, check out Eric Asimov’s article on martinis in the New York Times today. I have found that Old Raj works well in each of these situations and has the potential to add so much to cocktails because of its varied flavor profile.

There – I just wrote about something I really liked. That felt great! If you try Old Raj, you will experience a similar feeling. Wow, that whole post made me want some of the “Raj” right now. Unfortunately, I’m out. The stores are closed. I now have plans for tomorrow.

 

By the way, my claim to love “The Raj” should be taken as a term of endearment and in no way should be interpreted as support for colonialism. Me and Ghandi are still cool.

Wokka Saki & The World’s Wedding Cocktail

May 1, 2007

As I had discussed previously, I am an enormous fan of Wokka Saki. If you are unfamiliar with the spirit, it is a relatively new type of flavored vodka that merges vodka and sake together. While most flavored vodkas are enhanced with specific fruits or other components, Wokka Saki’s incorporation of sake allows for the distinct essences to transcend into the blended spirit, creating a flavored vodka with unparalleled complexity more similar to a very lightly flavored gin. While exquisite on the rocks, Wokka Saki has become a popular choice among mixologists. Last year, Wokka Saki was mixed into the Kenzo Wokkatini by Scott Gemmell to win the Drinks International Cocktail Challenge.

Wokka Saki’s aroma is full of nectarines and some peaches, though unlike most who have reviewed this product, I find the nectarine to be dominant. On the palate, Wokka Saki mellows the expected bite of the vodka well, which based on the strong alcohol aroma is unexpected. This allows for the grainy flavors of the vodka to emerge. The fruit aromas are also reinforced on the palate, but in a subtle way which distinguishes Wokka Saki from most flavored vodkas, which almost seek to hide the fact that they are still selling vodka. Wokka Saki’s finish is superb, carrying the nectarine and peach flavors throughout.

Wokka Saki’s mixological possibilities are endless. I have had original cocktails which mix everything from X-Rated Fusion Liqueur (beware - not recommended) to vermouth. As with most new cocktail creations, the most prominent problem with Wokka Saki cocktails seems to be the overuse of syrup through candy schnapps or simple syrup. This is a critical error because it defeats the purpose of using Wokka Saki, which as Gary Regan notes in his review is unique because of its ability to acquire flavor without the use of sugared components. Simple syrup has its place in cocktails using Wokka Saki (I even use it in mine), but it needs to be minimal. If using a syrup, experiment with spice flavored syrups (ginger syrup works extremely well) which add an additional dimension to potential Wokka Saki cocktails. Orgeat also is dynamic in cocktails with Wokka Saki. These recommendations should give you a start if you want to experiment yourself.

In creating my own cocktail with Wokka Saki, I wanted to develop a drink that was capable of being mixed with common ingredients and maintained the traditions of classic cocktails. Doing so would require a cocktail that would highlight the characteristics of Wokka Saki. The fundamental principle of mixology maintains that a drink’s the sum is greater than the parts. Wokka Saki sets the bar high, but here is my attempt:

 

The World’s Wedding

2 oz Wokka Saki
.75 oz Cointreau
.5 oz Lemon Juice
3 Dashes Simple Syrup
2 Dashes Bitters

Combine all ingredients and shake well in a shaker. Strain into a cocktail glass. Garnish with an orange twist.

 

Continuing the bartender’s tradition of naming drinks for guests who try them first, I named this drink for a couple who are engaged and regularly spend time at my bar, allowing me to experiment and use them as guinea pigs. The combination of vodka and sake in Wokka Saki are promoted as an East meets West approach. This marriage of vodka and sake merges two traditions together, joining the world’s approaches to alcohol creation. The cocktail allows for the properties of the Wokka Saki to be displayed while adding the orange and citrus components of the cocktail. The bitters is most influential midway through the taste, and the cocktail finishes with fruitier components. Hopefully, you will find this cocktail as enjoyable as I do. If you have any feedback, I would love to hear it! If this cocktail doesn’t work for you, just pour Wokka Saki over ice. Pick up a bottle and you will not regret it.

Bottom