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“Cocktail Condoms” and the Bartending STD’s

June 28, 2007

I usually don’t discuss mainstream news coverage on bars and cocktails, but I just couldn’t resist this and have been wanting to talk devote some time to educating my readers about the threats of Bartender STD’s. Apparently, a guy in Boston has created a laytex-type layer to cover your drink. People who use what is being called the “cocktail condom” can seemingly leave their drink unattended and return to the drink later; if the latex layer has been punctured, then it is obvious that the cocktail has been tampered with an shouldn’t be consumed. The condoms can tolerate being punctured by a straw while still retaining its form and keeping date rape drugs out. The inventor wants cities to pass ordinances requiring the condom and argues that beer and liquor companies could even advertise on them, cutting any costs for the bars.

Americans using condoms?

Our nation’s failure to utilize the condom effectively currently is certain to doom the prospects of this invention from the start, but other issues show that this concept is extremely flawed. Some critics are dead on when suggesting that this effectively turns my cocktail into a kiddie cup. Why don’t I just bring in a freaking thermos and a fruit rollup? I can’t imagine my Martini with a lid on it, though one wonders whether it would help keep the drink cold. Either way, I’m not drinking my Martini out of a straw. And, I know that to appreciate the complexity of a Miller Lite I need to sip it through a thin, elongated cylinder of plastic – that its what the guys at the World Beer Cup, did when they gave Miller Lite those four banners I see on television ads everday did right? Either way, I just don’t feel comfortable with the straw (or the beer).

We don’t need condoms for our drinks, only our beds! Be careful with your drinks and stay away from bars where there are too many people to keep up with. Doing this will not only prevent you from being a victim, it will also help you to find better bars and superior drinks. Further, these cocktails condom may keep the drugs away, but the STD’s of bartending (Sweet, Terrible, Drinks) will still get through. Here are few known cases –

“Cocktail Warts” – These wartlike projections found rimming cocktail glasses are usually caused by drink rimmers which have not been washed in months. Salty clumps form from the ongoing combination of salt and Roses lime juice, which find their way onto your glass. Instead of providing a cocktail garnish, these cocktail warts carry mold and an ungodly unnatural combination of salt and sugar.

“Gonorrhea”Pronounced “goner-er-ria”, this bartending plague known as shots is “gone” in a matter of seconds, but it will likely reappear over the next few hours. Symptoms include excessive vomiting and strong headaches.

“PUBic Lice”This parasite of pubs everywhere results from excessive fruit flies, or crabs which love the taste of alcohol as much as we do. They find their ways into bottles and flow into your drink. Frequently, unnoticed, they are harmful but when found symptoms of disgust and selective protein consumtionitis result.

“The Clap”For whatever reason, bartenders across the world seem to think that consumers love their hands all over their ice and glass rims. I know I enjoy my Old Fashioneds with muddle fingernail grit, but that should be optional. Instead, numerous diseases are transferred by the clap in an effort to pack glasses with ice. This disease is the most prevalent and dangerous of all bartender STD’s.

If you want to avoid the Bartender STD’s, you don’t need a cocktail condom; you just need a good knowledge of quality bartending practices. Keep reading this blog for more information on how to avoid the terrible consequences of infected bartenders. For additional information, be sure to check out the blogs listed to your right. Specifically, Jeffery Morgenthaler’s blog has some of the best bartender commentary on the net. I’m pretty sure he’s clean, so you can trust him for more information. Failing to find good bars can put you at risk for these drugs and types of situation. Relying on the cocktail condom only puts you at greater risk.

Fundamentally, the biggest problem with the cocktail condom is that it doesn’t even work. This might make me sound like I’ve thought of ways to bypass the condom too much, but it really is kind of obvious. Let’s pretend, I am Mr. Rapist, and I want to drug the girl turning 21 because she has already had too many drinks to let me engage her with conversation, something that otherwise would never happen. She needs to go to the restroom and summons enough courage to put on a cocktail condom in front of me. After acting insulted, I simply order another drink drop the roofie and put on another cocktail condom, that the bar must legally provide (so they all look the same). If anything, the cocktail condom helps my rapist endeavors and lulls my victims into a false sense of security. The girl comes back sees my planted Vodka Red Bull concoction with an intact condom and consumes the drink. Aside from experiencing the horrible consequences of choosing this drink in the first place (check out Darcy’ post on Vodka Red Bull at The Art of Drink), the girl has made a terrible mistake. The cocktail condom fails, and like any condom that fails, pregnancy and disease may result.

While this post has included some humor, rape is a very serious issue that needs social attention and safety proposals, but considering actions like making the cocktail condom mandatory in all bars is not the answer. Universities and bars nationwide need to invest more money into educating students, especially women, about the dangers and prevalence of date rape drugs. If education seems hopeless and you still want bars to carry date rape prevention products, consider a date rape prevention coaster. These coasters allow individuals to place a small drip of their beverage on the coaster. The coaster chemically reacts to substances found in common date rape drugs and changes colors; simple and effective. Coasters or condoms? You take your pick; just watch out for the clap! I can’t shake mine it shows up wherever I go.

Photo & Additional Information Sources:
ABC NEWS & The Pitt News

Woodford Reserve – The Labrot & Graham Distillery Tour

June 25, 2007

In a market generated by hype, the spirits industry’s fickle nature is often dominated by overall drink trends and popular perceptions of a super-premium status. Many brands have benefited from a public that associates quality with smoothness, creating a dominating demand for sweeter spirits. The traditional conception of American whiskey seemingly contradicts the sweeter social preference; however, the growth in mainstream popularity of bourbons like Woodford Reserve demonstrates the influence of trendy demands. Does this appeal to a sweeter, less harsh general palate negate quality? I don’t think so, and I love Woodford Reserve.

Woodford Reserve is a bourbon. To legally carry this label, the whiskey must be made from at least 51% corn, distilled at no more than 160 proof, and barreled for at least two years in new charred oak barrels. The variation in bourbon production results from several sources including length of barreling, barrel and storage conditions, type of water used in cutting the bourbon, and distillation processes and amounts, but the most influential and basic difference among bourbons results from the other 49%. Woodford uses only 18% rye and adds 10% barley, cutting back on the spicy elements of the rye. The result is a bourbon that is milder and sweeter. While relatively few bourbons utilize the wheated approach, the popularity of those that do have surged over the past few decades. Makers Mark pioneered this approach with little success until recently; recognizing this growth in demand for a sweeter bourbon, Brown Foreman began producing Woodford Reserve. Other examples of wheated bourbons include W.L. Weller, Pappy Van Winkle, and Old Fitzgerald. While not a wheated bourbon, Woodford Reserve is clearly appealing to this market.

The Labrot & Graham Distillery is the oldest operating distillery in Kentucky and was purchased and remodeled for the specific purpose of producing a higher quality milder bourbon. While many promotional efforts, namely the Kentucky Derby, have targeted a more mainstream market, Woodford Reserve like any quality lighter gin, less peaty scotch, or vodka produced outside of grain or potatoes is a great product. I traditionally try to promote smaller distilleries on this blog, but “Spirit of the Week” is about spirits that I like – this is definitely one of them.

Unlike most Kentucky distillery tours, the Woodford tour will cost you five dollars, but you do get a tasting at the conclusion of the tour. So hey, just consider the fee to be like buying Woodford at your local dive bar with a decent selection type place. The tour is extremely informative and the tour guides definitely understood the process better than any of the other tours I have been on. The tour starts with a video on bourbon (generic stuff) and follows with a visit to the distillery, warehouse, and bottling plant.

The Distillery

Despite being an extremely old site and building, the inside of the distillery is by far the most modern of any distillery in Kentucky. Computers are everywhere monitoring every aspect of the process. Everything is new; after being told so much about the history of the site at the onset of the tour, the evident modern approach takes away from the nostalgic conception of bourbon production.

Most notably, three large copper pot stills help to meet the ongoing demands of this major corporate brand. The sizes of the copper stills are enormous; to the left the distillation process is controlled and viewed through a glass casing. The distillery tour also covers barrel production and describes the importance of using new, charred American oak barrels to allow for the bourbon to take some of the burnt woods properties.

The Warehouse

The warehouse is less-remodeled and remains relatively unchanged, letting nature work her magic on the inside of the barrels. Woodford Reserve really picks up a lot from barreling, namely its vanilla tones. Additionally, Woodford is not barrel for a predetermined period. Instead, the batches are tested throughout maturation until a level of quality is reached. Other bourbons establish a specific time period, which can result in greater variation over periods of time. Different climate periods require varying barreling lengths to maintain consistency. Woodford Reserve utilizes this approach extremely effectively, improving its palate potential and creating another contention for the argument of its quality.

The Bottling Plant

The bottling plant was not operating during the tour, but in the bottling plant, we were allowed to smell Woodford Reserve at barrel strength. I could smell the Woodford Reserve all day after that experience. Bourbons are cut by water after barreling to a lower proof, which takes away from some of the flavor of the bourbon, but it does make it drinkable. Taking away from the corporate feel of Woodford was our tour companion, Elijah – the Labrot & Graham Distillery cat. I think this cat enjoyed bourbon with his mice because this had to be the friendliest cat I have ever met. He followed during the entire tour and expected to be pet from each member of our 20+ group.

Woodford Reserve is a great product produced by a quality distillery. While wheated bourbons and other milder approaches, such as that utilized by Woodford Reserve, seem to be trading the popularity of critics for that of conventional consumers, failing to see these bourbons as anything but an alternative approach in the wide spectrum of bourbon production is a mistake. Appreciation of bourbon requires an appreciation of all perspectives – even those that are created to make money off of popular trends. Trends often sacrifice quality, but popularity and quality are not mutually exclusive.

Voyant Chai Cream Liqueur

June 17, 2007

Welcome Mixology Monday Folks! Mixology Monday is an online event I always look forward to as a reader and now hope to contribute to as a blogger. The only problem is that reviewing a cream liqueur is a bit difficult; there just isn’t that much diversity in the cream liqueur section of your local booze shop. Some notable exceptions outside of Baileys and other Irish creams include Amarula and Dooley’s; however, a relatively lesser known competitor released in 2005 called Voyant Chai Cream Liqueur is trying to find room on the shelves. Attempting to capitalize on popular flavors trends is a common strategy for many spirit producers, but can this approach work in a cream liqueur?

To evaluate Voyant, I used Baileys as a benchmark and tasted the two together. One of the basic differences between Baileys and Voyant is that Baileys is made from a base of Irish Whiskey; Voyant is made from “aged Virgin Island rum”. This differentiation makes Voyant slightly sweeter than the Irish cream, but the rum is much more noticeable in Voyant than the whiskey is in Baileys. Consequently, the rum is present in the initial taste as well but is quickly over taken by the Chai and cream elements. Voyant is also thinner than Baileys and slightly darker. Otherwise, Voyant is basically a traditional cream liqueur with a Chai twist. Voyant is sweeter than I would like it to be, but overall, it is at the very least an interesting product that can pinch-hit for Baileys if needed and shake things up a bit.

Cream liqueur drinks seem to be the weirder part of the cocktail family that nobody really wants to invite to the reunion at the bar. I mean those Nutty Irishmen seem to always cause trouble when consumed in excess. Nevertheless, Voyant Chai Cream Liqueur (there’s a child with an identity crisis) might just help to make some meager contributions to the liqueurs group which might win them some modest acceptance in the cocktail family. Here’s a couple of Voyant variations. They aren’t the classic cocktails that I love and blog about frequently, but hey, it’s a cream liqueur theme.

The Nutty Chairishman

1 oz Voyant Chai Cream Liqueur
1 oz Frangelico
Nutmeg for Garnish

Shake and strain into a cocktail glass and dust some freshly grated nutmeg on top.

Also try this one:

The Chasian Orgasm

1 oz Voyant Chai Cream Liqueur
1 oz Kahluha
1 oz Amaretto
Cinnamon Stick for Garnish.

Shake and strain into an old fashioned glass filled with ice. Garnish with a cinnamon stick.

I really like the spiced notes of Voyant and found it to work well with Captain Morgans rum. I like to drink the following:

Captain’s Chai Tea

2 oz Voyant Chai Cream Liqueur
1 oz Captain Morgan Spiced Rum
½ oz Cream
Shake and strain into an old fashioned glass filled with ice.

If you would like to check out some other recipes that use Voyant, you can visit their website. BEWARE! Most of the cocktails are just simple twists on other Irish cream cocktails, but they did get too creative with some drinks, most notably, this one:

Long Island Chai Iced Tea

Glassware: Sling
Method: Shake all ingredients except cola with ice and strain into a an ice filled glass, then top off with cola, stir and garnish with a cherry.
Ingredients: 1 part of rum, vodka, gin, triple sec, tequila, and 2.5 parts Voyant Chai Cream Liqueur with splash of cola.

This was one of the worst drinks I have ever had. I had to struggle to not vomit and decided to call it a Voyant night. For the record, I knew this was going to be bad going in; I was just too curious for my own good and had to know just how awful it could be. I could have never imagined the result. Despite this retched experience, I think that if you get a chance to try Voyant, you should give it a whirl.

Thanks for visiting me here at Drink Dogma. Please make sure to look around a bit and send me an e-mail or leave a comment. I am a big fan of all the other cocktail bloggers out there as you can tell from my blog list on this page, so make sure to explore their sites as well. I love talking to people about bartending, spirits, and cocktails and look forward to hearing from you. Now head over to Morsels and Musings to see what other creamy creations are out there.

 

Additional Note: Robert B. Back, the creator of Voyant contacted me recently and was extremely willing to discuss his product with me. I wanted to say thanks to Robert for his outgoing efforts and post some of his favorite Voyant cocktails. I haven’t tried any of these, but since I was slightly critical of the cocktails on the Voyant website, I figured I would post some that he believes feature Voyant well. Here they are:

V-56 FLOAT

Voyant Chai Cream Liqueur
Jagermeister
Coke or Root Beer

In a tall soda glass filled with ice, add in equal parts Voyant and Jagermeister and then top off with Coke (or Root Beer).Use a spoon to mix well and then top off with 1-scoop of Vanilla Ice Cream. Serve with a straw and enjoy.

CHOCOLATE CHARLIE’S

3 oz Voyant Chai Cream Liqueur
1 oz Milk Chocolate Syrup

Add Chocolate Syrup to bottom of brandy snifter and roll snifter to coat bottom of glass. Add in Milk and then Voyant and steam in glassware until warm. Froth the beverage and garnish with shaved chocolate (or chocolate sprinkles) and whipped cream.

North Shore Gin No. 6 – The Bartender’s Gin

June 11, 2007

The legacy of Teddy Roosevelt is littered with contradictions, yet his hypocrisy was most blatant towards alcohol. A devoted absinthe drinker, Teddy seemed to enjoy the pleasures of a drink. However, having learned his lesson one night after consuming too much, he swore to never drink in excess again. According to all accounts, Teddy fulfilled this promise. It was absinthe after all. Despite his lifelong love for the green fairy, Roosevelt campaigned for the prohibition of alcohol since his political career began in New York. Nevertheless, Teddy’s Rough Riders and the Spanish American War are inextricably linked to the Cuba Libre and an increased interest in rum among Americans during this period. This contradictive history hardly suggests how Teddy and his big stick would react to the modern world of alcohol. However, one thing is certain - Teddy Roosevelt would be pissed!

The most important impact of Roosevelt’s political career was his defiance of large corporations. The ongoing purchasing of smaller distilleries by large corporation has become the single greatest threat to the micro-distillery movement that is critical to the reinvigorated interest in cocktails. While the growth of micro-distilleries appears to be duplicating the microbrewery movement, the critical difference between these two industries appears to be that most breweries have relished in their independence, while many smaller distilleries seem to be established for the intended purpose of selling to a larger corporation. This trend has been particularly common among tequila producers in Jalisco and Russian vodka companies, each which have ended in disastrous results (please read my posts on the tequila industry and Russian vodka industry for more information). While it is difficult to fault larger corporations for acting appropriately and with good business sense, the impact of acquisition has influenced the quality of many spirits. Other producers have been redirect towards popular trends that defiantly contradict past traditions, diminishing any previous imagination and creativity. The pillar of innovation in this global takeover remains the independent distillery.

It is important that those of us who value quality spirits that push the boundaries of the industry in positive manner show support for smaller companies. This activism does not mean that you should never drink and Tanqueray and tonic again, but these circumstances do demand that when a quality independent product is developed, support needs to be shown. Conversation and grassroots support remain the most critical component of the success of these distilleries in a heavily advertised commercial market. Relying on others to provide this publicity can only result in the failure of this entrepreneurial spirit.

One of the many distilleries nationwide producing amazing spirits is the North Shore Disillery, located near Chicago in Lake Bluff, Illinois. Founded by Derek and Sonja Kassebaum, this distillery has developed several wonderful products which will impress anyone who appreciates quality spirits. Here is a list of the spirits that North Shore produces:

Gin –
Distiller’s Gin No. 6
No. 6 Mingled with Dates
No. 6 Mingled with
Ceylon Tea
Distiller’s Gin No. 11

Vodka –
North Shore Vodka
Tahitian Vanilla Vodka

Artisan Collection –
Aquavit - Private Reserve

The list speaks for itself. The list of gins alone is intriguing enough. Distiller’s Gin No. 6 is in my opinion one of the best on the market, yet the infusion of their gin with dates and Ceylon tea is a first for the industry. Not only are they pioneering the infusion of gin, but the choices of dates and Ceylon tea provides a unique product that cannot be found in any other spirit. Aside from making new flavors available to mixologists, Distiller’s Gin No. 11 is produce solely for restaurants and bars and is not available in stores, emphasizing a relationship between the distillery and any bartenders willing to try and talk about a great product. The vanilla vodka infusion is the best on the market, hands-down no questions asked, but my favorite product made by North Shore is the Aquavit. I wrote a whole post on how much I love this stuff – check it out! I know that there a bunch of quality independent distilleries out there, but I can’t think of one that produces such diverse and consistent line of quality spirits.

The one product that needs to get more attention however is Distiller’s Gin No. 6. Many bartenders really seem hyped up on Hendrick’s (I love it too), but Hendrick’s lack a critical spice dimension that prevents it from exhibiting all of the best characteristics of gin. Nevertheless, as part of the non-traditional gin movement, Hendrick’s popularity is based largely on its ability to inspire new uses in cocktails. North Shore has similar characteristics and makes some amazing cocktails, but it adds the spice dimension that Hendrick’s lacks. Additionally, unlike other newer gins, the use of citrus fruit is not too dominant. Citrus fruit should be a crucial component in any gin, but stressing citrus too much threatens the spectrum of flavors that a gin exhibits. I get some lime out of No. 6, but the juniper remains the backbone of the gin and serves a foundation for other elements (another principle that new wave gins often violate to their own detriment). The herbal properties of the gin are excellent, but as with Hendrick’s, the floral components are really distinguishing. The cardamom and lavender particularly stand out. The spice elements are magnificent as well; cinnamon is emphasized in this gin with excellent results. I love this gin and drink it neat all the time. The finish of the gin is unlike any other and focuses on the floral and peppery properties of the gin.

Despite specifically targeting bartenders through Distiller’s Gin No. 11, I think that Gin No. 6 is an amazing mixing gin. The diverse flavors work so well in so many cocktails, but their equal balance allows for certain elements to impact cocktails individually. A martini made with North Shore is my favorite, as I mentioned in the “9,204 REAL Martinis and Counting…” post, but I have tried this gin in several classic cocktails and really found these to work well:

The Bebbo Cocktail

1 ½ oz North Shore Gin No. 6
1 oz Lemon Juice
½ oz Honey
2 Teaspoons Orange Juice
1 Maraschino Cherry for Garnsih

Stir all the ingredients together without ice until the honey dissolves. The honey dissolves quicker if its viscosity is lessened through heating. After this process, shake the ingredients with ice and strain into a cocktail glass.

This cocktail was saved from extinction by Dr. Cocktail (Ted Haigh) in Vintage Spirits and Forgotten Cocktails and is a variation of the Bee’s Knees Cocktail, which does not include the OJ. The gin works so well with the honey and really makes this drink reach the next level!

The Aviation

2 oz North Shore Gin No. 6
1/4 oz Maraschino Liqueur
½ oz Lemon Juice
Shake all the ingredients and strain into a cocktail glass.

This drink is usually made with a more traditional, juniper propaganda-styled gin, but because the juniper is still very active in North Shore it still works well here. I also cut back on the Maraschino Liqueur for two reasons. First, I use Stock because it is most available, and the dryness of Stock works better in a lesser quantity here (this Aviation tip came from Gary Regan in The Joy of Mixology). Also, the Maraschino Liqueur can dominate some of the more subtle properties of the gin if too much is used.

Shores Up North

2 oz North Shore Gin No. 6
½ oz Ginger Syrup
½ oz Lime Juice
Tonic Water
8 Mint Leaves
Lime Wheel for Garnish
Mint Sprig for Garnish

Muddle the mint leaves in the base of a tall glass with the ginger syrup. Fill the glass with ice and add the lime juice and the gin. Top the glass with tonic water and pour the drink into a shaker. Stir gently (don’t agitate the tonic and flatten it) but thoroughly. Strain into a an ice filled glass and garnish with the lime wheel and mint sprig.

I like this drink and made it after messing around with the Ginger Rogers in Jeff Hollinger and Rob Schwartz’s The Art of the Bar. I was going to make a Ginger Rogers, but I didn’t realize I had depleted all of my homemade ginger beer until it was too late. Not that it would have mattered; I was out of siphon cartridges as well, so I couldn’t even do a blander soda substitute. All I had was bottled tonic water, but the drink was awesome. I liked it so much I keep making it unaltered, tonic water and all! This is one of my favorites, and I have been drinking it frequently in this Houston heat!

Update: After the comments made about Audrey Saunders’ drink the Gin Gin Mule, it became apparent that her drink was strikingly similar to the drink I had made out of necessity and lack of ingredients. Here is her recipe:

 

Gin Gin Mule

½ oz Lime Juice
½ oz Simple Syrup
6 Mint Sprigs
¾ oz Ginger Beer
1 ½ oz Gin

Splash Soda Water
Lime Wedge for Garnish

Muddle the lime juice, syrup, and mint. Add gin and ginger beer and shake well. Pour over ice in a highball glass. Top with soda and garnish with the lime wedge. From Dale DeGroff’s The Craft of the Cocktail.

 

Try these drinks and the gin; you won’t be disappointed. I rarely give a complete endorsement to a single company or brand, but the North Shore Distillery not only deserves it, they belong to a group of companies that need community interest. North Shore is still predominantly available in Chicago and surrounding areas, but their website has information on how you can get your hands on some. North Shore Gin No. 6 is is featured in this post because the online community needs to provide more support for these types of products. Relying on the industry is insufficient. While gaining positive reviews from several sources, the North Shore company was underappreciated at the San Francisco Spirits Competition, receiving only a Bronze Medal. While some independent distilleries were treated more fairly at the competition, the SFSC was again used to exhibit larger brands and provide commercial opportunities for larger spirits (check out my post on the lack of objectivity of this “competition”). This is the most blatant example of why independent distilleries need more grassroots assistance. Try the gin, mix the gin, but above all, talk about it. Clearly, North Shore and others rely upon individuals and objectivity for their ongoing success. But, what is often ignored is that the industry as a whole relies upon companies like North Shore for innovation and evolution. Teddy would agree. Who knows - maybe he would raise a glass too.

9,204 Different REAL Martinis and Counting…

June 8, 2007

In The Joy of Mixology, Gary Regan makes the argument that the Manhattan is “the best cocktail on earth.” His rationale is partially based on “digesting all the variables” that influence a Manhattan’s taste. Gary probably knows more about this cocktail than anyone on the planet, and he argues that the best Manhattans consider the properties of their whiskey appropriately. For example, a spicier whiskey, such as a rye, needs more vermouth to correctly balance the drink. Milder whiskeys, such as a wheated bourbon, needs less vermouth. Therefore, to successfully create an ideal Manhattan, the bartender must have an extensive knowledge of whiskies, vermouth, and bitters. More importantly, to become a cocktail artisan, one must understand how the ingredients work together. Amid these circumstances, it is easy to understand why Gary claims the Manhattan to be the “best”.

Now, I would certainly never attempt to refute anything that Gary Regan has said. The man drools more bartending knowledge in his sleep than I posses. However, the term “best” is rather opinionated, allowing for me to add my own two cents. Additionally, Gary’s arguments for Manhattan supremacy have recently become applicable to the Martini. Now, I am not going to claim that the Martini is great because it was one of the first or is more iconic. Instead, let’s just consider the same concepts of complexity with the Martini.

THE MARTINI

3 oz Gin
1 oz Vermouth
2 Dashes Bitters (
Orange Preferred)
Olive for Garnish

Combine all the ingredients in a tin and stir. Strain into a cocktail glass and garnish with the olive.

Simple enough? Maybe so - 10 years ago. Gin’s popularity was in the gutter and few brands were available to consumers. What a difference a decade has made! Gin has gained so much popularity that it is hard to keep up with all of the available brands. Consequently, the impact on the Martini is diversity. Just as the Manhattan is influenced by the abundant number of whiskies available, the Martini has become exponentially complex as new gins have developed. Bitters manufacturing has expanded as well, which equally influences both the Manhattan and the Martini. The combinations seem endless, but I came up with a ROUGH calculation of the possibilities for the Martini drinker.

The Rules: This task was a little more difficult than I expected. I generally keep track of most new products, especially gins, that are hitting the market, but, WOW, there are just so many more than I thought. I started listing them of the top of my head initially, got to about 30, and decided I needed some help. After surveying a few online merchants with huge selections, I settled on the list below, which I am sure is still incomplete. I excluded crap gins (such as Skol, McCormick, and any other company that produces a type of each major spirit and makes me want to vomit) and gins that are not traditionally used in Martinis (such as Holland’s gins). A lot of discussion has been made about whether some newer gins make good martinis and even count as gins. Some of my favorite articles covering this issue have been written by Gary Regan in the San Francisco Chronicle and Eric Asimov in the New York Times, but for the purpose of argumentation, let’s just count those gins that meet a minimum quality standard and could conceptually be used in a Martini. Vermouth has to be French Vermouth, and the bitters have to be either a basic (generally angostura flavored or similar) or orange, which was used originally. We will let Stirrings Blood Orange bitters in to be fair, but Collins chemical-orange-death-mixture is out. Other flavored bitters, while great in Martinis, are excluded just to draw the line somewhere. Alright, here’s the list of options:

TYPES OF FRENCH VERMOUTH

1. Boissiere
2. Cinzano
3. Dolin
4. Gallo
5. Kedem
6. Lejon
7. Martini & Rossi
8. Noilly Prat
9. Stock
10. Tribuno
11. Versasi
12. Vya

TYPES OF GIN

1. Aviation
2. Bafferts
3. Beefeater
4. Beefeater Wet
5. Blackwood’s
6. Blackwood’s 60
7. Bluecoat
8.
Bombay
9.
Bombay Sapphire
10. Boodles
11. Broker’s
12. Bulldog
13. Burnett’s
14.
Cascade Mountain
15. Citadelle
16.
Cork
17. Damrak
18. Desert Juniper
19. DH Krahn
20. Dogfish
21. G’Vine
22. Gabriel Boudier
23. Gilbey’s
24. Glenmore
25. Gordon’s
26. Gordon’s Distillers Cut
27.
Hampton’s
28. Hendrick’s
29. Iceberg
30. Indigo
31. Juniper Green
32. Junipero
33. Kensington
34. Magellan
35. Mercury
36. Miller’s
37. Miller’s Westbourne Strength
38. No. 209
39. Northshore
40. Old Raj (46% ABV)
41. Old Raj (55% ABV)
42. Parliament
43.
Plymouth
44.
Plymouth Navy Strength
45. Quintessential
46. Rogue Spruce
47. Sarticious
48. Seagram’s
49. Seagram’s Lime Twisted
50. Seagram’s Reserve
51. South
52. Tanqueray
53. Tanqueray Rangpur
54. Tanqueray Ten
55.
Tower of London
56. Van Gogh
57. Whitley Neill
58. Xoriguer
59. Zuidam

TYPES OF BITTERS

1. Angostura
2. Angostura (
Orange)
3. A.V. Wees
4. A.V. Wees (Oranje)
5. Bitter Truth
6. Bitter Truth (
Orange)
7. Fee Brother’s
8. Fee Brother’s (
Orange)
9. Hermes
10. Hermes (
Orange)
11. Peychaud’s
12. Regan’s (
Orange)
13. Stirring’s (Blood
Orange)

POSSIBLE MARTINIS: 9,204!

That’s right; with no repetition, there are 9,204 possible different combinations of 1 type of vermouth, 1 type of gin, and 1 type of bitters! And, as with the Manhattan, different degrees of vermouth work better with different strengths and flavors of gin. One could even make the argument that the variations in gin are more extreme than whiskies because of the diverse amount of herbs and other spices used. Further, not all gins work well with all vermouths. My favorites in each category are Vya Vermouth and Old Raj for example, but these two simply don’t work well together in my opinion. This is partially because Old Raj’s saffron elements seem to clash with some of Vya’s complexity; use Noilly Prat with Old Raj instead. This is just one example of the adjustments that need to be made for different ingredients.

Previously, when gin was more uniform in taste, the alterations were less essential. But as the gin market expands, bartenders need to be more aware of the relationship between their ingredients. So which is more difficult, the Manhattan or the Martini? Who knows? Gary’s original argument probably still applies because gin has yet to outnumber types of whiskies and probably never will. However, all other issues aside, the increasing diversity of gin makes the Martini a flexible contender. The question ultimately is unimportant; instead find out which of each you like the best. Here’s mine:

MY FAVORITE MARTINI (CURRENTLY)

2 ½ oz Northshore Gin
1 oz Vya Vermouth
3 Dashes Regan’s
Orange Bitters
Lemon Twist for Garnish

MY FAVORITE MANHATTAN (CURRENTLY)

2 ¼ oz Sazerac 6
Rye
1 oz Vya Sweet Vermouth
2 Dashes Angostura Bitters
1 Maraschino Cherry for Garnish

Are they the best? Is one better than the other? Who knows, but they are my favorites right now. I have had a lot of Martinis, but nowhere near 9,204. I won’t try some by choice, and others I probably won’t have the opportunity to experience. If I just tried one of the possible combinations every day, it would take over 25 years to complete the list of combinations, and new gin brands are certainly going to continue to appear as well, making this objective impossible. Nevertheless, the quest for the unobtainable holy grail of the Martini is more about the journey than the drink.

Follow-Up Note: In a strange sort of coincidence that would almost only happen with the best of cocktails, a couple other blogs I am big fans of wrote on the Martini when I was working on this post or just before. I like each of these blogs and wanted to go ahead and recommend them as other readings related to this post and as great blogs! Check out Married with Dinner and Oh Gosh! if you liked this post.

Sazerac 6 Yr. Old Straight Rye Whiskey

June 4, 2007

The world of spirits is booming, and with this influx, a variety of new products have appeared. Keeping up with each of these spirits can be a difficult undertaking, but one of the best ways to experience this exciting period in cocktail and spirit history is to choose one bottle a week to try. One of the best spirits on the market right now gaining a cult-like following is Sazerac’s 6 Year Straight Rye Whiskey.

Rye whiskeys were virtually wiped out by Prohibition. Replaced by today’s cheaper corn whiskeys, rye became a ghost of the spirit world. While a few ryes, such as Old Overholt, Rittenhouse, Jim Beam, Wild Turkey, and a few others could still be found lurking some shelves, the art of the classic American rye was nearly lost. Fortunately, the new wave of spirits has revitalized an interest for rye whiskey, and one of my favorites is the Sazerac 6.

At around twenty-five dollars a bottle, this rye whiskey is the one you should keep on you shelf. While there are better ryes out there, these super ryes are pricey items. Are they worth it? That depends on how much you like rye whiskey, and those ryes are generally intended to be appreciated straight. However, the Sazerac 6 is the exemplary bartender’s rye. If you want to try the Manhattan of yesteryears, use this rye! While having the classic bold rye components, the spice of this rye does not overshadow other potential cocktail ingredients. The results are cocktails with a level of complexity that is out of the reach of bourbon or other whiskeys. The oldest are the best:

The Original Manhattan

2 oz. Rye Whiskey
1 oz. Sweet Vermouth
2 Dashes Bitters (Angostura)
Garnish: 1 Maraschino Cherry

Stir the cocktail – do NOT shake. This cocktail needs the ice to make it work well together, but broken up ice can disrupt the smooth texture of this drink. Strain into a cocktail glass and garnish with the cherry. Experiment with different ratios of whiskey and vermouth with this drink. The 2 to 1 ratio is standard; however, different types of whiskey require different amounts of vermouth. For more information, read Gary Regan’s take on the Manhattan in his book The Joy of Mixology.

The Old Fashioned –

2 oz. Rye Whiskey
1 Cube Sugar
2 Dashes Bitters (Angostura)
1 Maraschino Cherry

Muddle the sugar and bitters until the sugar dissolves. Fill the old fashioned glass with ice and add the whiskey. Stir thoroughly in the glass and garnish with a maraschino cherry.

The Sazerac -

2 oz. Rye Whiskey
½ oz. Simple Syrup
6 Dashes Absente
3 Dashes Bitters (Peychaud’s)
1 Lemon Twist

Combine all of the ingredients except for the Absinthe into a tin and stir. Take the Absinthe and coat the cocktail glass. Strain into a cocktail glass and twist. The Absinthe can be replaced with a substitute like Pernod, but different subs and different Absinthes will obviously impact the taste of the drink. The only way to cope with this is to experiment!

While these cocktails are Hall of Famers, the best way to get started with rye is to try it neat. If you’re a bourbon drinker, rye might seem somewhat familiar. This is because it is; some bourbons have been using rye portions in their mashes since their inception. American whiskey is usually composed of varying degrees of corn, wheat, and rye. Whiskeys that contain greater amounts of rye have a stronger backbone, while those with more wheat are mellower. Rye whiskey turns the American concept of whiskey on its head. Bourbons are required to be produced from a minimum of 51% corn, but rye whiskeys clearly use rye instead, boosting the spice tones tremendously.

The Sazerac 6 is an excellent example of rye whiskey, but it lacks some of the complexity of others, especially its older brothers the Sazerac 18 and the Thomas Handy. While the citrus aromas follow through in the initial taste, they fade quickly, and the classic rye spice is not as strong as others. While, as said earlier, this makes for great cocktails, it leaves something to be desired when not mixed. Nevertheless, the whiskey is pleasing independently and can hit the spot if you’re craving rye. If you have never had rye, try it neat first so that you can value its impact on cocktails better.

The Sazerac 6 can be a little difficult to find if you don’t live in a larger city, but it is definitely worth the effort. Please leave your feedback and reviews on the Sazerac 6 for others to read as well. For more information on rye, I would really recommend reading Paul’s rye section at his blog, the Cocktail Chronicles. His series on ryes is an invaluable source!

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