Texas Adds Another Brewery

One of the great things about our huge beer selection at Beaver’s is our devotion to local beers. I think we will have 75 different beers when we finally get everything in stock, and of these beers, I think around 15 will be Texas beers. Texas has made some monumental strides in brewing beer since I left the state, and the number of microbreweries is set to grow even further. I have been talking all week with my bar guests about the upcoming debut of Southern Star Brewing after reading about it on Barley Vine. According to the brewery’s website, Southern Star’s “production target remains Mid-December”. They have plans to release a Dortmunder-style lager, available on tap at selected locations, and an American Pale Ale called, Pine Belt Ale. Interestingly, Southern Star has plans to package all of their beers in cans. This is definitely going to get the new brewery a lot of needed attention and, hopefully, help to jump start another small brewery in Texas.

The Texas brews we have chosen at our bar really help to contrast the rest of our beer collection which currently is seasonal and, consequently, rather heavy and bold at the moment. Currently, we have 5 barley vines for example. Texas beers are generally lighter in style to compliment the warmer weather. Perhaps, this new brewery can help to fill this Texas void at some point. One intriguing exception to this stereotype of Texas beers is the Real Ale Coffer Porter, which we carry on tap. It is actually brewed with a local artisan coffee called Katz Coffee and makes for an nice seasonal beer.

Texas currently has 5, or 6 depending on your perspective, craft breweries:

-Independence
-Live Oak
-Rahr & Sons
-Real Ale
-Shiner (Debatable Craft Status)
-St. Arnold’s

The addition of Southern Star Brewing is really exciting, especially since it will be based out of nearby Conroe, and their unique twist has really intrigued me. I plan to do a review and ranking of Texas Breweries in the upcoming weeks, so please make sure to check back for my thoughts on Texas’ microbrewery industry. For more information on Texas’ beers or just beer in general, check out Barley Vine, where I was tipped off about Southern Star Brewing. I always read this blog to keep up with local beers and get what is obviously an experienced opinion on beer.

A First: La Clandestine Absinthe

Working behind a bar with someone for hours on end, five to seven nights a week can provide a unique perspective on the personality and habits of your counterparts. You learn to move behind the bar without colliding, communicate nonverbally about guests and their needs, and formulate an unwritten list of responsibilities. Chemistry emerges and a detailed understanding of the bartender next to you eventually becomes as clear as a shot of vodka. Wow! A use for vodka finally emerges: the simile; I had to get one more jab in. Anyway, despite this emergent relationship, extended co-workers are a rarity in this industry, often creating a revolving door of different perspectives on how to make a great martini. My recent decision to bartend at a new bar has reintroduced me to the workplace dynamics of adapting to working with a new group.

Fortunately, the staff behind the bar at Beavers is incredibly knowledgeable and focused on drink quality like myself. We’ve read the same books and know that there is only one may to make a true martini, allowing me to skip my traditional lecture. I don’t know where these individuals have been hiding in the Houston area, but I am just glad that we all seem to be collected under one roof. Nevertheless, the introductory period between co-workers is unavoidable, leaving one, at times, grasping for something recognizable. The familiarity of the bottles, the ice, and the eager guest quickly help you to fall into a rhythm that all veteran bartenders possess regardless of the environment. Six years into the profession and I think I could bartend at an elementary school by now; after all, there’s a plethora of juices available.

However, while reflecting on my previous experiences this week, I started to realize that my ability to bartend and my supposed knowledge of spirits and cocktails is based largely on the available bottles and the willingness of my guests to try something new. I usually manage to convince people to move outside their comfort zones (Grey Goose hates me), but the bottles remain relatively constant. Ultimately, this has left a gapping hole in my perspective on the spirits universe.

Products that haven’t made there way onto the shelves at my bars generally remain a mystery to me. I have sought some oddities out, but I admit that I don’t seek new and unique bottles as much as I should to stay on top of things. I know, I know, it’s disgusting. I’ll try and do better – for you of course. Starting right now!

Until recently, absinthe definitely fit into the category of hard to find spirits that never made their way into bars. Sure, there is always Pernod and other substitutes, but these aren’t really absinthes as much as they are anise liqueurs, leaving the American consumer to order bottles online from overseas and pay outrageous shipping rates. Fortunately, the domestic absinthe market appears to be on the cusp of revitalizing itself with the release of Lucid and other products. These real absinthe brands have quickly capitalized on the newfound methods for measuring amounts of thujone. Thujone, a product of wormwood, stood for decades as the legal barrier to absinthe in the United States. Any product containing 10 ppm or more of thujone cannot be produced or sold in the U.S.; however, the newer absinthes simply lower their thujone content below this measurement and avoid the ban. Some have questioned whether this diminishes the credibility of the absinthe, but thujone levels are generally not associated with quality among absinthe experts and have even been shown to potentially diminish the potential of the spirit.

This is great news for those who haves always wanted to try absinthe but resisted the online approach. Unfortunately, the price and availability of Lucid may still be a barrier to broadening one’s consumption perspective. Spec’s, the local mega-store here, is selling the product for about $65.00 a bottle and had four one day, but none were left the next (pay no attention to the back-to-back day trips to the liquor store). My advice to you, find a great friend and make sure they order you a bottle from overseas for your birthday – thanks Kevin.

The bottle I have is a Swiss absinthe called La Clandestine. Switzerland also just recently allowed production of absinthe again in 2005, so, I might not have obtained the ancient authentic stuff I was looking for, but either way, the thujone regulations are going to be an issue. I knew how to serve absinthe, for whatever reason, and thoroughly enjoyed the stuff. I think I am well on my way to having a new favorite bottle. The flavor of the absinthe was nowhere near as powerful as I envisioned it being. I guess I had this Barry Bonds Sambuca view of absinthe, but instead of spirit doped up on licorice steroids, a wonderful texture and subtle, but defined, flavor was present. Bitter, yes, but this bottle still made Campari look like the Scrooge it always was. I love smacking Tiny Tim around with a Negroni myself, yet this absinthe was a refreshingly bitter anise flavor, if that’s possible.

Aside from the taste, the appearance was definitely not what I had expected. The green fairy was not green at all and didn’t change colors like I thought it would. Apparently, not all absinthes are green. The traditional color originally appeared because of the inclusion of herbs in the production of absinthe, but today dyes are frequently used. Uncolored absinthe are called blanches, or in the case of Swiss absinthes, like this one, La Bleues. It seems that absinthe is clouded by more myths than I had initially thought, even when it comes to color.

I am glad that I finally got my hands on some authentic absinthe and gave it a try. Surprisingly, I haven’t started mixing with it yet, as I have just been trying to appreciate it independently, but I am sure some authentic Sazeracs and such are just ahead. If you haven’t tried the green/white fairy yet, you definitely need to do so. It will completely change your perspective on the spirit and you might just find a new obsession, as if you needed one more. If you live in the Houston area, come by Beavers some time in a couple of weeks, as we have plans to get some Lucid and start serving it. If the idea of trying absinthe isn’t appealing, get over here anyway and check us out! Working with new co-workers is always exciting, but meeting taking care of new guests and seeing old friends is always great too. And, with my new intentions of reaching beyond the bar more often, you’ll never know what will be waiting for you next.

Note: I don’t know very much abut absinthe, but what I have learned, I almost exclusively read over at The Wormwood Society. It is a great site, and I know I will be spending more time over there in the future. Definitely, check it out.

Why Vodka Sucks

Disclaimer: In case it wasn’t painfully obvious, if you like drinking vodka, you probably won’t like reading this. And for the record, I still think you are an okay person if you do. I just had to put this disclaimer up here because most vodka consumers have trouble understanding the painfully obvious, namely, that vodka sucks. Yes, I am in a mood.

In case you haven’t heard, spirits connoisseur P. Diddy has recently struck a deal with global spirits leviathan Diageo to promote Ciroc vodka. I have had some trouble finding the specific terms of the deal available anywhere on the net, but the vague descriptions that do exist state that P. Diddy has the potential to make about $100 million dollars for taking partial control of Ciroc’s American marketing. According to Diageo, P. Diddy is going to assist in focusing the brand on the “art of celebration”. If this sounds ridiculous, you may need to consider the vodka market a bit more. Not only is this campaign likely to be successful, but I think P. Diddy may be getting ripped off here.

The rap community has significantly contributed to the brand notoriety of several major alcohol brands, including Courvoisier, Cristal, and Belvedere Vodka. While each of these labels where well established before they became staples in thoughtless rap lyrics, sales of brands mentioned in music jumped significantly after being mentioned in popular lyrics. For example, following the release of “Pass the Courvoisier Part Two”, sales of the cognac increased 33%. Perhaps, Busta Rhymes was just expressing his long found love affair with a quality cognac, but amidst a recent appearance on The Game’s title track single, The Doctor’s Advocate, a song which, glamorizes Belvedere and banana schnapps (yum!), I have to say I am skeptical of Busta’s palate. Nevertheless, following the impact of this song in particular, spirits marketing execs everywhere instantly became rap fans.

Recently, however, rappers, such as Jay-Z have lashed out against labels such as Cristal for not embracing their contributions to sales improvements, even going so far as to start buy their own brands, such as Armadale. Consequently, the marketing relationship between alcohol brands and famous rappers seems to have transitioned from lyrical marketing handouts to spirits Execs “straight outta compton”. Oddly, however, this growing relationship seems to have only taken hold in the vodka market. For whatever reason, brands like Courvoisier, are hesitant to hand over their centuries old reputations to this year’s most popular Lil’. If Biggie and 2Pac were still around, things might be different, but with hip-hip reduced to a landscape of flavorless and talent-lacking imitators, vodka promotion seems all to appropriate. The mere existence of a promotional relationship between the rap community and vodka companies, shows why vodka sucks. Name one scotch that would benefit from Diddy’s participation in their marketing department. The only reason why vodka continues to get a good rap from the music industry is because most vodka drinkers are a fickle sort who will drink just about whatever they think is popular or are persuaded to consume under false pretenses of quality and luxury. OOO! There it was; vodka experts get mad.

I have given my opinions about vodka before. I think it is ridiculous that the spirit which contains the least diversity and quality differentials among bottlings receives the most attention and brand loyalty. This does not dispute that there are differences in quality among different types of vodka, but it does question whether those differences are worth discussing. I’d like to bartend in a world where people understood what they were drinking and didn’t spend time obsessing about a preference determined by which brand accumulated the most media attention. And, if you are one of those, “But I know the difference between vodka brands and I drink it straight” type people, congratulations, you’ve spent time deciphering between something that strives to be odorless and tasteless. Think of all the money and time you could have spent on scotch, or wine, or beer, or something with some flavor; oh well, whatever makes you happy. I know this is never going to happen, and from time to time, I embrace the Skyy and tonic because it gives me the opportunity to really focus on a great drink for a guest who will get so much more out of their Vanilla-Cardamom Gastrique Sidecar. But, right now, this whole P. Diddy thing has got me all worked up. That’s it; I am just going to say what every self-respecting serious cocktail crafting bartender wants to, but hasn’t:

I WANT TO BARTEND AT A BAR THAT DOESN’T CARRY VODKA!

Man, wouldn’t that be awesome? Imagine it gin would rule the bar and vodka patrons would be forced to drink something with complexity and dimensions. Grey Goose enthusiasts would find that spending $8.50 on a drink is so much better when it actually tastes like $8.50. Think of the guest who approaches my pipe dream vodkaless bar:

P. Diddy Lover: Can I get a Vodka Red Bull straight up on the rocks? And, let me get some Ciroc with that. I can’t handle that other stuff.

The Vodka Abolitionist: I am sorry sir, we don’t serve vodka (or Red Bull) here. Can I offer you one of our exquisite house cocktails instead?

P. Diddy Lover: What you don’t serve vodka? What kind of bar is this? Not even P. Diddy’s vodka? Are you serious, but it’s made from grapes?

The Vodka Abolitionist: Actually sir, we have some fine spirits made from grapes that aren’t afraid to call themselves an eau die vie, pisco or brandy, and we use them each in great drinks. How about you let me make you a pisco sour, and if you don’t like it, I’ll let you move on down the road to the next P. Diddy vodka house without paying for it at all?

P. Diddy Lover: Okay, but I don’t like anything but P. Diddy’s finest.

***2 Minutes later, following a bit of hesitation at the sight of an egg being cracked…

P. Diddy Lover: Hey, man this pretty good. What did you say you called this? What else can you make?

The Vodka Abolitionist: See there’s a reason why JLo left him, and before you ask, no, I can’t change the music only your understanding of drinks. Let me show something else…

Hey, a bartender can dream can’t he? Alright, I think I got my monthly vodka rant out of my system. I feel much better and can now be a little more objective and fair. Yes, vodka does serve a purpose, and I always have some in my house. I prefer to buy Tito’s because I like to support micro-distilleries, but I generally use it as a preservative for syrups or turn it into a liqueur or infusion, knowing that I am still getting ripped off by paying this much for vodka and using it for these purposes. Additionally, I think some good flavored vodkas are made, namely Van Gogh makes some quality flavored vodkas in my opinion. I really like the Double Espresso. Finally, if you want to drink a “vodka” made from grapes (which isn’t a vodka in my opinion, it’s an eau di vie) because you enjoy what actually is a noticeable difference in this variety of “vodka”, try Roth Vodka. It is a better “grape vodka” and, if you live in the states, is cheaper than Ciroc because it is made domestically from Napa Valley grapes. However, none of these less-harsh comments about vodka really changes anything. I am sticking to my claims that vodka sucks, and I would like to bartend somewhere that didn’t serve it.

Sorry Diddy.

 

Note: I will embrace the title “The Vodka Abolitionist” should you see it necessary to refer to me as such in the future.

Gastrique Experimentation

As my illness finally subsides, I realize that the blog has been sparsely updated and needs some new content. Trying to get everything back on track has been difficult because I put off so much while I was a prisoner in my own home, and without any cocktail activity lately, there isn’t much to add. Nevertheless, a friend of mine, Morgan Weber, who I met through this blog, discussed with me some of his experiments with the vanilla-cardamom gastrique I found to be such a great cocktail ingredient. Morgan shares my enthusiasm with cocktails and his strong culinary background aides in his understanding of the interplay of drink components. Consequently, he came up with some great cocktails that I would highly recommend others try. I found the following e-mail Morgan sent me interesting because it documents his experimentations chronologically, providing insight into the process of drink innovation.

“Bobby,

Good morning sir, I hope you are feeling better. I just wanted to give you an update on the gastrique that I made. This is roughly the recipe that I used

1/2 cup imperial white sugar
1/2 cup turbinado sugar (raw)
3-4 tablespoons champagne vinegar
1 whole vanilla been, split and finely chopped
10-15 cardamom seeds, roughly chopped
Splash of lemon juice

I caramelized the sugar with the lemon juice and then added the vanilla and cardamom. I let it steep for about twenty minutes. Strained it and once it was cool, refrigerated it. Once it was cold, it thickened up considerably, so i thinned it a bit with water. The taste was amazing–very much a fall season gastrique. This weekend, I tried it in a number of things that were really delicious.

Sidecar

1 1/2 oz Brandy
1/4 oz Cointreau
1/2 oz lemon juice
1/2 oz vanilla cardamom gastrique (if i did it again, i would probably make it 1/3 oz instead of 1/2)

The next one I have no name for:

2 pieces candied ginger, muddled with a 1/3 oz of the gastrique
1 oz Plymouth gin
1/2 oz Cointreau
1/2 oz grapefruit juice
1/2 oz lemon juice
1 dash of my homemade bitters.

This drink was very spicy. Even with gin, which I look at as a very refreshing, summertime spirit; it was very much a fall/winter drink. Tart and herbaceous, but spicy from the ginger and the gastrique. It was a little too sweet the first time i mixed it (i used 1/2 oz of the gastrique), but Stacey loved it.

Next I tried it in a Manhattan

2 1/4 oz Baby Sazerac Rye
3/4 oz Vya Sweet
1/4 oz Vanilla Cardamom Gastrique
3 Brandied Cherries

This was really nice–yes a bit sweeter than normal, but still balanced. The sweet didn’t cover up the rye, but the spices in the gastrique gave it a pretty cool character.

Let me know how things are going. Props on the gastrique.

-Morgan”

If you have experimented with gastriques at all, please let me know how it turned out for you. I would be very interested in hearing how other people are using them in drinks. Thanks for letting me post your e-mail Morgan and giving me some substitute content while I was out.