Campari, Carmine, and Corporate Conquests

The eGullet Spirits and Cocktails forum has a very interesting discussion about Campari and possible recipe changes that the spirit has undergone over the last few years. Campari has traditionally used carmine, a product from cochineal beetles, to help give the aperitif its striking red color, but around 2005, Campari labels stopped printing “contains carmine” on the back of the label in exchange for “artificially colored”. While different theories exist in regards to whether or not the use of carmine was reduced or stopped at this time, a cloud of uncertainty appears to have set over the brand.

As many eGulleters did this week after reading about this on the forum, I tracked down two differently labeled bottles of Campari and did a blind tasting of each. My findings are very similar to those described on the forum in that the newer “artificially colored” bottle was a tad sweeter and more vibrant than the older bottle, which seemed to have a more rounded, consistent flavor throughout. I’m not a tasting expert by any means, but I found the newer bottle to be more aggressive than the older, which might seem attractive (it is Campari after all). However, in this case, the newer Campari was less balanced than the older. Some have pointed out that this may be the result of changes in the spirit over time, which makes sense, but I think a greater concern exists here.

I love my Campari just as much as the next bitter-loving cocktail enthusiast, so, sure, the possibility that aging is the perceivable difference in the two bottles is a definite relief to some degree. But, the ongoing uncertainty about the stability of one of the most treasured and historical Italian aperitifs is far more unsettling. The persistent purchasing of distilleries and brands of spirits by alcohol conglomerates creates a situation in which many of our favorite spirits are caught in a world of economic flux in which the integrity of spirits must compete with market pressures and trends.

Many spirits, especially tequila, have seen surges in demand after being bought by large corporations who launch aggressive advertising campaigns. Frequently, the popularity of these spirits forces the newly acquired distilleries to make adjustments to original techniques and use inferior ingredients. Occasionally, these shifts are obvious and easily noted by dedicated consumers, bartenders, and others. But, as with Campari, two words on the back of a reformatted label may be the only indication that something is has changed.

I think this is a major concern that is likely to become more pressing as the acquisition of spirits continues worldwide. To prevent the degradation of the quality of our favorite spirits, it is important some steps be undertook. First, sharing perceptions of changes in spirits with other enthusiasts on sites like eGullet is important because it will attract attention to possible recipe alterations that might have gone unnoticed otherwise. Not everyone is going to buy new bottles of Campari at the same time so noticeable public reaction is unlikely if people don’t share thoughts with one another about their experiences.

Micro-distilleries also need to be supported as individual companies. Expressing devotion to a company because it is privately owned mitigates global corporate interest because acquisition would destroy the brand’s appeal. This does mean, however, that we must support micros because of their creativity and use of quality ingredients. In short, don’t buy or bolster micro-distilleries because it is trendy to do so, do it to make a statement and enjoy the difference after researching their techniques of production.

Finally, if you’re a bartender, take the time to introduce people to older products, like Campari, so that any incentive for change becomes unnecessary. Yes, it’s a small step, but I think everybody’s first taste of Campari might have been a little different if someone didn’t tell you what you were in for and show you how it can be used. The cocktail resurgence across the country has already brought ingredients like Creme de Violette back to the states (unless you’re living in Texas under stupid liquor laws), so there is some indication that advocating older products is not as critical as it once was. Yet, the recent changes in Campari suggest that nothing is certain and all spirits are at risk to some degree.

I sent an e-mail to Campari tonight requesting information about the use of carmine and any recipe changes to the aperitif, and if I get a response, I will post more about it here. Campari may have not even changed, and to some degree, only time will tell if the spirit evolves on the shelf. However, this issue seems to be occurring far too frequently these days, and I think it is a concern that warrants greater attention and concern. Classic cocktails require classic ingredients. Don’t mess with my Negronis.

Texas Liquor Laws and St. Germain’s Tardiness

I have started to wonder if states like Washington, Pennsylvania, and Texas are competing against one another to maintain the most ridiculous collection of liquor laws. For example, while everyone else in the country was mixing it up with St. Germain a year ago, lone star state residents like myself and fellow cocktail blogger, the Tipsy Texan, were left thirsty. It wasn’t until last week that St. Germain finally became available to bars and the public. So don’t act like we’re the special kids in gym class just because we’re a year behind with our posts praising the elderflower liqueur. True, I had tried some St. Germain the week before I left Illinois last May, but I never really had a chance to work with the product. I assumed that I would find a bottle once I got to Texas. Instead, all I found was the same oversized SUV’s I had left two years before, all too eager to drive into my car in an attempt to squeeze in the compact car space - twice - one month. No St. Germain; no note about the damages.

While Texas laws concerning hit and runs are very clear (assuming you can find the bastards), Texas liquor laws are among the most confusing in the nation. Here’s what we’re working with down here:

-Encyclopedia Britannica is banned in Texas because it has a recipe in it for making beer.
-It is illegal for someone to take more than three sips of beer at one time while standing.
-Here in Houston, it is illegal to buy beer after midnight, but it can be purchased all day on Mondays.

Those are some of the more comedic laws, but seriously, Texas issues 66 different types of liquor licenses. 66! I don’t even think I could create more than 10 of I had to. As with most bureaucratic overdoses, politics and money are the root of the problem. The most aggravating part of liquor regulations for bars and restaurants in the state of Texas is that we must buy all of our spirits from retail stores (diagrammed here). Spirits cannot be bought from distributors as one would do in any other logical state. This creates a situation where bars and restaurants are forced to pay for an additional distribution step that is unnecessary, as national and local distributors across the county have demonstrated the ability and desire to directly provide products. While laws that previously required the same procedures for wine have been revoked, spirits still have to be bought from stores solely because of lobbyist efforts to maintain profits for retail stores.

While this may not seem like that big of an issue, we recently ran out of a type of wine at the bar this weekend, so I went to the local store to pick some up. At retail prices, the same bottle cost me 3 dollars more than the direct distributor price. After buying six bottles, we effectively paid 18 dollars more than we would from a distributor. Now do the math on orders of 50 bottles of liquor a week from the same store, and you can see how the retail stores are allowed to slowly leech off our establishments. Now that I thnk about it, maybe I should be trying to open a liquor store instead of a bar! Wait a second, I would still have to go through that horrible TABC certification program I did a couple of months ago; so maybe I should just move out of state first.

I might not be that frustrated with Texas laws along if I could still get great products like St. Germain, but Texas also requires label approval and chemical testing for each individual brand. Most other states accept federal approval, which undergoes stricter testing, to set standards for brands available in their states. But apparently, Texas feels that our scientists are going to find something that the feds didn’t. Combine that with waiting on the lackluster Texas government to then approve individual labels and people like me are forced to buy products over the net and get reamed on shipping.

I guess when the day finally comes for new spirits, we are ready. I love St. Germain and am going to be trying out everyone’s 2007 libations and developing some of my own over the next few weeks. So far, I really like using the elderflower liqueur with gins and fortified wines, especially Lillet. Additionally, I think Pisco and St. Germain are an interesting combination. Here’s a couple to try:

Pisco Sour Remix

2 oz Pisco
1 oz Lemon Juice
1 Tsp St. Germain
1 Egg White
2 Dashes Fee Brother’s Aromatic Bitters.

Read my treatise on egg cocktails to perfect this drink, or combine in a shaker filled with ice and shake VERY hard for an extended period of time and strain into a cocktail glass. Garnish with the bitters.

If you’ve ever sat at my bar for more than a couple of drinks, I’ve probably forced a pisco sour or two on you. In this case, adjusting the bitters is important because the Fee’s don’t overpower the St. Germain as much as the traditional Angostura would. Other than that, it’s pretty much the standard 3-2-1 approach with a little less liqueur than the usual simple syrup. the St. Germain is a subtle but awesome change.

The Peruvian Elder-Sour
(Via Gary Regan - The San Francisco Chronicle)

2 oz Pisco
1 oz St. Germain
1/2 oz Lime Juice

Shake and strain into a champagne flute. Garnish with a lime wheel.

As written, I found this recipe to be a bit sweeter than I like, but using more lime juice and decreasing the St. Germain created a much more balanced drink in my opinion. Either way, I think the St. Germain-pisco combination is a winner as demonstrated by each of these concoctions. To be honest, St. Germain’s unique and high-quality properties could probably be mixed with any spirit if done correctly. The possibilities are endless.

Ok, let’s recap; the car is in the shop getting repaired. The St. Germain is at the bar getting used in cocktails being tweaked every night. Now, if someone would only get to work on the Texas liquor regulatory structure, all would be right in my world.