Allagash Musette Oak-Aged Scotch Ale

I love being back in Houston. After 2 years in the cocktail backwoods of North West Arkansas, where a bottle of the local watery beer and a Jager bomb toped my list of great drinking experiences, and 4 years before when I passed my time shooting Jack and kicking back Coronas in a mostly dry region of West Texas, I find it refreshing to be crafting drinks at a bar where we are given the freedom to explore the Rosetta Stone that is the Savoy Cocktail book. However, I have recently discovered that one of the best things about being back in Houston is also one of the most threatening establishments to one’s personal finances, Spec’s Liquor Warehouse. I have been finding it harder and harder to walk out of there for less than two hundred dollars, which wouldn’t be all that bad if I was throwing a big party or if I was doing it once a month, but sadly this is not the case. I might be what some would call an uncontrollable collector; therefore, I have made a new rule: I will not shop with a cart Spec’s. I will only buy what I can carry with my two hands. Facing such limitations I find myself weighing the cost of a bottle of booze against the quality of said bottle, and last week I found a bottle of beer that was well worth the price. When is a bottle of beer worth $17? When it is as good as the most recent offering from Allagash Brewing based out of Portland, Maine. You see, the Allagash Musette Oak Barrel Aged Scotch Ale is the reason why I made the no cart rule.

Allagash is small, but powerful brewery out of Portland Maine that was born out of the American craft brewer’s movement of the mid 1990’s. Allagash owner Rob Tod set out to bring the ever complex and diverse Belgium beer styles to the American population. After the success of the brewery’s first two beers, Tod and his growing staff began researching the historical art of méthode champenoise. The technique calls for two fermentations, one in the Brewery’s fermenting tanks and the second in the bottle itself. It is this second fermentation that produces a notable increase in carbonation, a softer mouthfeel, and beers of remarkable complexity. This method of bottle conditioning leaves a small amount of yeast in the bottle, creating what is known as a “living” beer. As a result, these styles have a greatly enhanced shelf life and some styles will age exceptionally, much like a fine wine. Just as the styles originate in Belgium, so does the package itself. To insure authenticity, Allagash imports the bottles and corks directly from the same country that designed the techniques. This enables the beers to reach carbonation levels similar to champagne while allowing the corks to “pop” characteristically upon serving. Today, Allagash still remains one of very few breweries in North America using this distinctive package.

Born from this historical and time honored brewing method comes Allagash’s newest brew the Musette an Oak-Aged Scotch Ale that Weighs in at 10% ABV and is only available in very limited batches. To be honest, I am surprised that there isn’t some crazy Texas Law that bans such beers, but I’m gong to drink as much as I can before someone passes one. The beer pours dark amber. Watching the liquid flow from the bottle into the glass you can tell that this beer is going to be worth the money. The nose is light but as the beer warms the careful notes of wood and spice begin to come out. The oaky smell shouldn’t come as a surprise, but the spiciness is somewhat unexpected. Deciphering the spices from the nose alone if difficult, but a careful balance becomes clear as you breath in the brew.

As the beer comes rushing out of the glass a think white head form that is built out of tiny bubbles. The creamy yet fizzy head settles down after a few minutes into a thin white hat that stays on top of the brew the whole time. The lacing of the head is long and leggy and generally endures for the time that it takes to drink the beer.

At first taste, the beer is all about malts and oak. The oak flavor is an underpinning, not the main story line which is nice. I have found with oaked beers in the past that the woodiness takes over and ruins the beers many flavored plot line. The malts on the front end give the beer a pleasant round mouth feel. The oak flavors act as a clean transition from the front of the taste to the tail, playing the role of fair boat captain, and the beer moves from the front of the tongue to the back. On the finish is when the spiciness joins the party. It is on the finish that the spice shows its true form of ripe fruit, the beer smacks of fresh raisins and bananas.

Overall, I found this beer to be delicious. I can safely say that this is my favorite beer of 2008 so far. With that in mind, the real scary part is that I believe this beer will be better after it has rested a few years. If you are a fan of big beers or great Belgium’s you will love this beer. This beer sets up an expectation that some would call unreasonable yet leaves you wanting more. It was this belief that made me take a return trip to spec’s pick up a few more bottle to add to my collection. So, although I have put the brakes on large volume purchases, it has just made me more discerning and willing to pay for what taste good. That and for some reason, I keep making all these damn trips to Spec’s lately. Hey, I said no cart, but I didn’t say I couldn’t make multiple trips…