Campari, Carmine, and Corporate Conquests
February 26, 2008
The eGullet Spirits and Cocktails forum has a very interesting discussion about Campari and possible recipe changes that the spirit has undergone over the last few years. Campari has traditionally used carmine, a product from cochineal beetles, to help give the aperitif its striking red color, but around 2005, Campari labels stopped printing “contains carmine” on the back of the label in exchange for “artificially colored”. While different theories exist in regards to whether or not the use of carmine was reduced or stopped at this time, a cloud of uncertainty appears to have set over the brand.
As many eGulleters did this week after reading about this on the forum, I tracked down two differently labeled bottles of Campari and did a blind tasting of each. My findings are very similar to those described on the forum in that the newer “artificially colored” bottle was a tad sweeter and more vibrant than the older bottle, which seemed to have a more rounded, consistent flavor throughout. I’m not a tasting expert by any means, but I found the newer bottle to be more aggressive than the older, which might seem attractive (it is Campari after all). However, in this case, the newer Campari was less balanced than the older. Some have pointed out that this may be the result of changes in the spirit over time, which makes sense, but I think a greater concern exists here.
I love my Campari just as much as the next bitter-loving cocktail enthusiast, so, sure, the possibility that aging is the perceivable difference in the two bottles is a definite relief to some degree. But, the ongoing uncertainty about the stability of one of the most treasured and historical Italian aperitifs is far more unsettling. The persistent purchasing of distilleries and brands of spirits by alcohol conglomerates creates a situation in which many of our favorite spirits are caught in a world of economic flux in which the integrity of spirits must compete with market pressures and trends.
Many spirits, especially tequila, have seen surges in demand after being bought by large corporations who launch aggressive advertising campaigns. Frequently, the popularity of these spirits forces the newly acquired distilleries to make adjustments to original techniques and use inferior ingredients. Occasionally, these shifts are obvious and easily noted by dedicated consumers, bartenders, and others. But, as with Campari, two words on the back of a reformatted label may be the only indication that something is has changed.
I think this is a major concern that is likely to become more pressing as the acquisition of spirits continues worldwide. To prevent the degradation of the quality of our favorite spirits, it is important some steps be undertook. First, sharing perceptions of changes in spirits with other enthusiasts on sites like eGullet is important because it will attract attention to possible recipe alterations that might have gone unnoticed otherwise. Not everyone is going to buy new bottles of Campari at the same time so noticeable public reaction is unlikely if people don’t share thoughts with one another about their experiences.
Micro-distilleries also need to be supported as individual companies. Expressing devotion to a company because it is privately owned mitigates global corporate interest because acquisition would destroy the brand’s appeal. This does mean, however, that we must support micros because of their creativity and use of quality ingredients. In short, don’t buy or bolster micro-distilleries because it is trendy to do so, do it to make a statement and enjoy the difference after researching their techniques of production.
Finally, if you’re a bartender, take the time to introduce people to older products, like Campari, so that any incentive for change becomes unnecessary. Yes, it’s a small step, but I think everybody’s first taste of Campari might have been a little different if someone didn’t tell you what you were in for and show you how it can be used. The cocktail resurgence across the country has already brought ingredients like Creme de Violette back to the states (unless you’re living in Texas under stupid liquor laws), so there is some indication that advocating older products is not as critical as it once was. Yet, the recent changes in Campari suggest that nothing is certain and all spirits are at risk to some degree.
I sent an e-mail to Campari tonight requesting information about the use of carmine and any recipe changes to the aperitif, and if I get a response, I will post more about it here. Campari may have not even changed, and to some degree, only time will tell if the spirit evolves on the shelf. However, this issue seems to be occurring far too frequently these days, and I think it is a concern that warrants greater attention and concern. Classic cocktails require classic ingredients. Don’t mess with my Negronis.
One other possibility: Colorants are not entirely tasteless, even in the small amounts in which they’re used. I made a batch of alkermes last year, and tasted it both with and without the cochineal extract — the change was small, but perceptible. (As I recall, it’s bitter and a little ‘hot’. Again, not terribly so, but enough.)
So, I’d say it’s possible that you’re actually tasting the difference in the flavorings used, or that Campari added more sugar to cover an unpleasant aftertaste of the new colorant.
I’m curious, as always in any “blind” tasting test to know exactly the taste testing method. Ideally, to prevent any sort of influence, the test should be a true double-blind, including obscuring any visual (color difference) cues that might be gotten.
That said, even so, all that would show was difference between older and newer bottles and not the direct reason for the difference. I am glad to hear that age has been taken into account as a potential issue. I wonder if there is anything light-reactive in the formulation as well.
Kudos, Robert, for your “time will tell” statement. Other than the Campari folk themselves confirming a change, it may be the only way to confirm one way or the other.
Perhaps I’m biased, but I can’t help but wonder if the change was at least in part to eschew the use of animal by-products?
JJ
Good point Anita; I think this is definitely a possibility that should be considered. I agree that many products with artificial coloring agents often have a distinct taste that just seems off in conjunction with other natural ingredients.
Scortch, while I didn’t make myself blind to the colors officially, I did do the tasting in dim lighting which kept myself from being able to identify any visual differences in the two. I also poured three sets of two and found my findings to be consistent. I was able to accurately describe each type of campari consistently. I could have more official, true, but I think that this procedure was sufficient for this little exercise. I also think that light reactive properties theory is very interesting and should be explored further.
Well, in searching for more on this topic in general, I came across the following medical case study that might give one pause when considering reasons for making the change to artificial color:
http://www.inchem.org/documents/jecfa/jecmono/v46je03.htm
There’s been rumor bandied about that PETA also was going to hit them with a”bug-juice” smear campaign. I dunno about you, but Campari seems a bit low profile for them to marshal up much of a movement. I think the average person would go “What’s Campari??” and the average Campari drinker would go “Eh, pour me another Americano… “
I haven’t had a chance to test any of this out myself with two bottles of the old stuff on hand anyway, and with a near empty oil tank eyeing my wallet greedily, I can be only so indulgent right now…
Somebody had mentioned the allergic reaction issue as well on eGullet, but that article really lay it all out. I am sure that it had something to do with the consideration as well. Earlier this week I got an e-mail back from Campari, but all it said was carmine supplies were running out and they had to find something else. Throw in PETA *who I don’t think by the way frequently evaluates the effectiveness of their campaigns), and you’ve probably just got a combination of factors. Thanks for the link.
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I really miss the old Campari…i`ve been drinking it for 20 years..its impossible to find now where i live and exporting starts to get difficult as well. I find it hard to get used to the new formula, its not the same, period. (But i still drink it of course)
I actually have some old Campari still at the bar, but as you would expect at a bar where I work, it is going fast. When I finish this bottle there will be no more, and the place we order from will be out as well. I think I am going to save the last shot for myself, lol.
What i find the hardest to get used to with the new formula is the weird mouthfeel..and then that the taste is..well..just different.