Quady Winery: Deviation

Working behind the bar definitely has its ups and downs. Down? Last Saturday. Someone forgets to screw the cap all the way on the gallon of simple syrup; it falls as you pick it up, and you are literally covered from head to toe in a sticky mass of pissed-offness. Sorry, Kevin, I don’t know when I’ll let that one go; I think I am permanently part sugar. Up? When someone brings you a new bottle of deliciousness. This perk of the job is even more exciting when the surprise comes from one of your favorite producers, Quady Winery. I might be a little behind the California crowd here, but in Texas, this is a rare gem that I found to be so delicious I had to share my delight.

If Quady Winery sounds familiar, that’s a good thing because it means you’ve likely been enjoying what has clearly become their most recognizable products, Vya sweet and dry vermouths. Vya is one of my favorite products behind the bar to introduce to people because it fights a ongoing battle for me. I am constantly pouring people a taste, and almost every time, I am able to convert “dry” vermouth haters into aperitif connoisseurs by simply letting the Vya do its work. In my opinion, there is no greater Manhattan that one made with Vya.

My adoration for Quady’s vermouths certainly sets a high expectation for anything else bearing the winery’s name. The Deviation was no exception. Upon having the dessert wine described to me as a sweet wine infused with herbs, I instantly began questioning whether the vermouth concept had gone too far. After all, a vermouthy dessert wine really muddles the concepts of aperitifs and digestifs. But, hey I am all for breaking the norm, especially if the herbs are rarely used.

Deviation is an orange muscat dessert wine flavored with geranium and damiana. I’m not really a plant guy, but I have had my share of liqueurs and spirits. So, I recognized Damiana from the liqueur of the same name, which is supposed to be an aphrodisiac. Funny, I thought that claim applied to alcohol in general. Anyway, Damiana, the herb, grows throughout Central and South America, and its leaves are frequently used to make a tea similar to chamomile, which I must say tastes much better than the liqueur. The geranium keeps with the cupid theme, as it was used previously in witchcraft practices to seduce those exposed to certain potions.

What really intrigues me about this wine is the blend of very apparent citrus and herbal elements with such depth of character. Usually, wines that exhibit light botanical flavors and acidic citrus components are light and crisp, Deviation, well, deviates completely from this accepted standard for wines. The end result is a distinct dessert wine that would make any evening a unique and memorable experience. There is no greater achievement for this genre of wines.

Unless of course, they stand the potential to play some greater role for those who can’t let sleeping dogs lie. The unique properties of Deviation make it a perfect choice for mixing. I’ve already began toying with some ideas for cocktails, but these drinks will have to remain shelved for the time being as an event centered on mixing with Quady wines is in the works at the bar. I will keep you posted, and I promise to get back to you on my own experimentations. For the time being, appreciate Deviation independently, or check Gary Regan’s article on mixing up love potions.

Man, I thought after the simple syrup catastrophe, I would swear of anything sweet for quite sometime, and I’m not quite sure I would have been excited about trying the surprise bottle of the day had it not had the name Quady on it. I rarely find a brand that produces multiple labels I enjoy. So far, Quady is three for three. Sounds like it is time to seek out more; this aphrodisiac stuff might just be working me over.