The State of Rum

The world of cocktails and spirits is caught in a persistent rotation of new hits. Actually, none of these spirits are “new”; instead, they are classic, but forgotten, spirits that have been resurrected for today’s renewed fascination with the antique cocktails. It started with the appearance of small-batch bourbons; then a few bottles of rye squeezed their way on to the shelves. The English no longer monopolize gin, and even absinthe has found its way to the party. These are exciting times for anybody who loves fine spirits. I am not sure what will be the next; all I know is the constant: rum.

Almost a year ago in an article littered with comments from rum aficionado Ed Hamilton, Time declared “rum is the new cognac.” While the article pointed out that sales of high-end rums have jumped dramatically, their use in cocktails seems to have not increased with the same tenacity that spirits such as rye have. Despite its crucial role as a classic spirits ingredient, social impressions of rum as a cocktail component still tend to be dominated predominantly by drinks like the Mojito. Sure, a correctly made Mojito is a fine thing indeed, but it is a poor representative for rum cocktails as a whole. One need only examine the Tiki era to find a slew of recipes that utilize far more complex rums in conjunction with various atypical juices, spices, bitters, and just about anything else that tastes right. Furthermore, many of these drinks utilize different types of rum to form complex, but balanced, combinations that blend everything from Gosling’s Black Seal to Flor de Cana Extra Dry. Where are the cocktails that blend different types of gin?

Not that blending gins together is a bad idea (sounds like an excuse for experimenting), but rum really is the spirit that has been used in cocktails more than any other. It was rum that first captured the hearts of the colonists. Following Prohibition, it was rum, not gin, not rye or bourbon, which renewed American interest in cocktails during the Tiki era. With such a diverse and extensive timeline of use, I would think that the most dedicated purists would give rum more attention. Unfortunately, I rarely see rum getting the respect it deserves on cocktail menus and store shelves. I am just as guilty as the next bartender, but the situation is somewhat baffling to me for a couple of reasons.

Initially, rum is cheap. In comparison to every other group of spirits, rum is definitely sitting under the blue light. In a market dominated by overpriced “ultra-premium” vodkas, it is clear that to some degree spirit consumers associate price levels with quality. Unfortunately, this mistake is far more likely to cause someone to miss out on a great brand than it is to help them find something they will enjoy. Many of these missed opportunities included great brands like Lemon Hart, Matusalem, and Lemon Hart, all of which provide spectacular bottles below the twenty dollar mark.

Classic and Tiki rum cocktails also generally require more effort and ingredients than other types of cocktails. Most bars like to keep produce inventory and cost down as much as possible and this means that often times, rum doesn’t make the cut. Sure, Tiki bars have been appearing throughout the country lately, but rarely do we see the bar that does both classics and Tiki drinks with equal advocacy. Sadly, many bars do stock significant rums selections, but they are under-utilized time and time again in preference for whiskey or gin.

Even if mixing up one of these drinks isn’t worth the time, in a cage match between the best rum you can get for fifty bucks and any other bottle in the world for the same price, rum is always going to win. I challenge you to find any bottle that gives you more bang for the buck than Ron Zacapa Centenario 23 year. I recently bought a bottle on sale for $36 – that’s like a $1.50 a year! That’s unheard of in any other spirits category. Not only that but, pricing aside, this rum can hold its own with any bottle, regardless of price. Hell, the rums little brother, the 15 year, can boast the same claim.

Above all, the rums that are available in today’s markets have been made by the same companies on the same islands or Latin American countries forever. Unlike the newer brands of classic spirits that have made by new micro-distilleries or worked into larger distilleries’ production lineups, most rums available today are produced with more experience than newer brands of other spirits.

That being said, some micro-distilled rums are beginning to appear on the market. In Texas alone, two rums have appeared over the last year, Treaty Oak and Railean. It will be interesting to see if these types of brands can find a place in a market where cheap, outstanding rums are already available and more widespread. Treaty Oak just hit Houston, and it has a lot to offer. Being one of the only micro-distilleries in the U.S. to actually start with the fermentation process, Treaty Oak truly is a small-batch local rum. I will be getting my hands on some very soon as well as meeting Treaty Oak’s owner, and I will be sure to report back.

A year ago, it seemed that rum might indeed have been the next new hit spirit, but looking back, the hype of countless new premium brands like Pyrat XO seems to have already fizzled somewhat. This development is unsettling because classic brands seemed to have never been given their due attention because of their lower prices and cocktails involving rum almost always went the light and fruity route. So do yourself a favor; mix with rum or buy the bottle of Lemon Hart with that unattractive label on it. If there is any time of the year for working with rum, this is it, but any season would be ideal for a good rum.