Campari, Carmine, and Corporate Conquests

The eGullet Spirits and Cocktails forum has a very interesting discussion about Campari and possible recipe changes that the spirit has undergone over the last few years. Campari has traditionally used carmine, a product from cochineal beetles, to help give the aperitif its striking red color, but around 2005, Campari labels stopped printing “contains carmine” on the back of the label in exchange for “artificially colored”. While different theories exist in regards to whether or not the use of carmine was reduced or stopped at this time, a cloud of uncertainty appears to have set over the brand.

As many eGulleters did this week after reading about this on the forum, I tracked down two differently labeled bottles of Campari and did a blind tasting of each. My findings are very similar to those described on the forum in that the newer “artificially colored” bottle was a tad sweeter and more vibrant than the older bottle, which seemed to have a more rounded, consistent flavor throughout. I’m not a tasting expert by any means, but I found the newer bottle to be more aggressive than the older, which might seem attractive (it is Campari after all). However, in this case, the newer Campari was less balanced than the older. Some have pointed out that this may be the result of changes in the spirit over time, which makes sense, but I think a greater concern exists here.

I love my Campari just as much as the next bitter-loving cocktail enthusiast, so, sure, the possibility that aging is the perceivable difference in the two bottles is a definite relief to some degree. But, the ongoing uncertainty about the stability of one of the most treasured and historical Italian aperitifs is far more unsettling. The persistent purchasing of distilleries and brands of spirits by alcohol conglomerates creates a situation in which many of our favorite spirits are caught in a world of economic flux in which the integrity of spirits must compete with market pressures and trends.

Many spirits, especially tequila, have seen surges in demand after being bought by large corporations who launch aggressive advertising campaigns. Frequently, the popularity of these spirits forces the newly acquired distilleries to make adjustments to original techniques and use inferior ingredients. Occasionally, these shifts are obvious and easily noted by dedicated consumers, bartenders, and others. But, as with Campari, two words on the back of a reformatted label may be the only indication that something is has changed.

I think this is a major concern that is likely to become more pressing as the acquisition of spirits continues worldwide. To prevent the degradation of the quality of our favorite spirits, it is important some steps be undertook. First, sharing perceptions of changes in spirits with other enthusiasts on sites like eGullet is important because it will attract attention to possible recipe alterations that might have gone unnoticed otherwise. Not everyone is going to buy new bottles of Campari at the same time so noticeable public reaction is unlikely if people don’t share thoughts with one another about their experiences.

Micro-distilleries also need to be supported as individual companies. Expressing devotion to a company because it is privately owned mitigates global corporate interest because acquisition would destroy the brand’s appeal. This does mean, however, that we must support micros because of their creativity and use of quality ingredients. In short, don’t buy or bolster micro-distilleries because it is trendy to do so, do it to make a statement and enjoy the difference after researching their techniques of production.

Finally, if you’re a bartender, take the time to introduce people to older products, like Campari, so that any incentive for change becomes unnecessary. Yes, it’s a small step, but I think everybody’s first taste of Campari might have been a little different if someone didn’t tell you what you were in for and show you how it can be used. The cocktail resurgence across the country has already brought ingredients like Creme de Violette back to the states (unless you’re living in Texas under stupid liquor laws), so there is some indication that advocating older products is not as critical as it once was. Yet, the recent changes in Campari suggest that nothing is certain and all spirits are at risk to some degree.

I sent an e-mail to Campari tonight requesting information about the use of carmine and any recipe changes to the aperitif, and if I get a response, I will post more about it here. Campari may have not even changed, and to some degree, only time will tell if the spirit evolves on the shelf. However, this issue seems to be occurring far too frequently these days, and I think it is a concern that warrants greater attention and concern. Classic cocktails require classic ingredients. Don’t mess with my Negronis.

A Tale of Frat Guys, Campari, and the Negroni

I am an enormous fan of the Negroni. I get cravings for one drink or another from time to time, but no other drink beckons my inner cocktailian like the perfect combination of sweet vermouth, gin, and Campari. The flavors are best demonstrated when served up, but I love my Negronis on the rocks and enjoy the transition from bold to calm. My first Negroni experience was awful. I had this bottle of Campari I didn’t know what to do with, and like a pacifist firing a gun for the first time, was kicked by the strength of the Campari.

I remembered this feeling distinctly when last week a couple of frat guys interrupted me as I was greeting a new bar guest. “Hey bartender; we need a shot now!” Apparently, the time period it would have taken to make one cocktail for someone who had arrived at the bar first was too long to endure before they continued to treat their stomachs and livers like they were mortal enemies.

“What can I get you guys?” My bar guest gave me a look that told me that it was okay to take care of them so we could continue our conversation about authentic cocktails before reaching a liquid decision. Non-verbal bar communication is like a universal magical device used by bartenders and favorite patrons that tells each participant that everything is going to be okay; I’ve got you in mind at all times.

Frat guys obviously aren’t aware of the non-verbal aspects of the bar. “Whatever man; just give us something you like.”

“You want it neat?” I asked, hoping they would grant me unrestricted freedom to demonstrate why disrespecting the bartender and other guests is always an unwise act.

Still trying to grasp the concept of the term “neat”, Mr. Popped Collar finally said “sure.”

“Wonderful; have you guys ever had Campari?”

“No, let’s do it!”

Campari is kind of an acquired taste. I was overwhelmed by my first negroni (which was also my first Campari venture) and swore I would never have another, but the next day I couldn’t deny this inner urge and found myself shaking the classic again. By the end of the week, I had a new favorite drink. That was a few years ago. These guys were Campari rookies, and I wasn’t going to give them the luxury of having it mixed. Warm Campari it was!

“It tastes like tree bark! Man, what was that? That was the worst thing I have ever had in my life! Can I have a drink of water?”

“Sorry, guys; give me a second while I take care of this guy’s cocktail.” I betted that they were wishing they had waited earlier instead of having to wait now.

“You gave us a gag shot; we wanted something you would actually drink.”

“Guys, I love Campari, and so does everybody else.” I gestered to the glass I held and passed the negroni to my patient guest who I had come to know as Mark. After asking Mark if there was anything else I could get him, I made a couple of waters. Mark loved his negroni and swore to come back every time he was in town.

As is my nature, I am always looking for improvements or equally respectable alternatives to classic drinks. Despite its wonderful equation, I contemplated if the negroni could be improved. Our chef, Dax had given me a red wine, balsamic vinegar syrup earlier in the week that he had been playing with, and I thought it would make an ideal substitution for sweet vermouth in the negroni. The drink was outstanding! While a little sweeter than a traditional Negroni, rebalancing the drink by using larger portions of gin and Campari made a perfect cocktail. I’m not saying that the syrup is even close to the bottled magic of Vya, but a good change from time to time is always welcome.

To make the syrup just use a red wine instead of water and make a simple syrup, which is just equal parts sugar and water heated over the stove until the sugar has dissolved. In this case, also add some balsalmic vinegar to taste. It is that easy and really makes a distinct cocktail ingredient. I like drinking this syrup with soda water as well. You don’t need to use your best French treasure; just pick a cheaper basic red wine. Here’s how I used it in my twist on the negroni:

Negroni

1 oz Gin
1 oz Campari
1 oz Sweet Vermouth
1 Orange Slice

Shake and strain into a cocktail glass or serve on the rocks. Garnish with an orange slice.

“Megroni”

1 ¼ oz Gin (use a bolder more traditional gin)
1 ¼ oz Campari
½ oz Red Wine Balsalmic Syrup
1 Orange Slice

Shake and strain into a cocktail glass or serve on the rocks. Garnish with an orange slice.

The Negroni is a wonderful drink, and I really think that this approach has some potential as well. Is it the going to reach the enduring status of its inspiration? Probably not, but if you’re feeling creative, give it a try. If you find yourself at a bar where this isn’t an option, ask for a Negroni. Just make sure it is your turn.