Gin & Tonic Cans: Convenience Gone too Far

First the rattlesnake vodka, now canned gin and tonic; what the heck is going on here? Is the world completely giving up on the cocktail?

It all started when I was browsing the gin aisle at Houston’s ridiculously large liquor store, Spec’s, last week, and there it was canned gin and tonic. I mean it was right there below my favorite gin grouping (yes, I have a favorite gin grouping at the liquor store), Juinpero, OldRaj, and Boomsma Jonge. How could they even think of putting this canned monstrosity next to such fine products? I had to buy it and find out what this was all about. So, I guess, in a way, they won over another sucker.

The canned G&T is made by Greenall’s, which is actually a gin I have never had. The list of gins I have never tasted is becoming shorter and shorter, so I think this might have played a role in my curiosity. For what it’s worth, Greenall’s gin has been made in England since 1761. Most of it, however, is distributed in bottles.

Surprisingly, the bottle option is just about the same price as the cans. I didn’t even look at the price when I grabbed the little four pack. When my cashier rang the cans up and said 12.50 something, I reacted without thinking, “Excuse me?” She repeated, and I paid and thought, “Wow, there’s not even a financial incentive to this product.”

The cans come in 12 ounce sizes and contain 10% alcohol by volume. This means, that there’s actually only 1.2 ounces of good ol’ Greenall’s per can, which is less than your standard shot. The individual price of the can would be $3.13, which is about halfway to the markup you might pay in a bar or restaurant. But, I’m not sitting in a nice lounge; instead, I’m planted on my couch wondering why the “cantender” charged me so much and underpoured.

And then I tasted it. Let me be accurate here - this stuff is by far the worst gin and tonic I’ve ever had. I re-checked the can and found an explanation “imported gin with natural flavors & artificial sweeteners”. The artificial sweeteners definitely made this taste like a funky Sprite more than a G&T. By funky Sprite, I mean lemon and lime soda meets the moist ass of a hyena in heat. One sip was enough; I couldn’t handle anymore. Good gin and tonics require good gin and good tonic. This can offers neither.

What concerns me most about the canned gin and tonic concept isn’t the bad tasting experience. I’ve had plenty of those, though this might have been one of the worst. My fundamental problem with this product is that the G&T, despite being one of the greatest cocktails ever, is as basic as it gets. Gin, tonic, ice, a lime for garnish, and you’re done. Why do we need to can this? Is this procedure to difficult for people to carry out? It all started with the boxed dinner; now everything has to be pre-made. Let’s just officially change the Declaration of Independence to “life, liberty, and the pursuit of convenience.”

I’m disgusted, in more ways than one.

A Tale of Frat Guys, Campari, and the Negroni

I am an enormous fan of the Negroni. I get cravings for one drink or another from time to time, but no other drink beckons my inner cocktailian like the perfect combination of sweet vermouth, gin, and Campari. The flavors are best demonstrated when served up, but I love my Negronis on the rocks and enjoy the transition from bold to calm. My first Negroni experience was awful. I had this bottle of Campari I didn’t know what to do with, and like a pacifist firing a gun for the first time, was kicked by the strength of the Campari.

I remembered this feeling distinctly when last week a couple of frat guys interrupted me as I was greeting a new bar guest. “Hey bartender; we need a shot now!” Apparently, the time period it would have taken to make one cocktail for someone who had arrived at the bar first was too long to endure before they continued to treat their stomachs and livers like they were mortal enemies.

“What can I get you guys?” My bar guest gave me a look that told me that it was okay to take care of them so we could continue our conversation about authentic cocktails before reaching a liquid decision. Non-verbal bar communication is like a universal magical device used by bartenders and favorite patrons that tells each participant that everything is going to be okay; I’ve got you in mind at all times.

Frat guys obviously aren’t aware of the non-verbal aspects of the bar. “Whatever man; just give us something you like.”

“You want it neat?” I asked, hoping they would grant me unrestricted freedom to demonstrate why disrespecting the bartender and other guests is always an unwise act.

Still trying to grasp the concept of the term “neat”, Mr. Popped Collar finally said “sure.”

“Wonderful; have you guys ever had Campari?”

“No, let’s do it!”

Campari is kind of an acquired taste. I was overwhelmed by my first negroni (which was also my first Campari venture) and swore I would never have another, but the next day I couldn’t deny this inner urge and found myself shaking the classic again. By the end of the week, I had a new favorite drink. That was a few years ago. These guys were Campari rookies, and I wasn’t going to give them the luxury of having it mixed. Warm Campari it was!

“It tastes like tree bark! Man, what was that? That was the worst thing I have ever had in my life! Can I have a drink of water?”

“Sorry, guys; give me a second while I take care of this guy’s cocktail.” I betted that they were wishing they had waited earlier instead of having to wait now.

“You gave us a gag shot; we wanted something you would actually drink.”

“Guys, I love Campari, and so does everybody else.” I gestered to the glass I held and passed the negroni to my patient guest who I had come to know as Mark. After asking Mark if there was anything else I could get him, I made a couple of waters. Mark loved his negroni and swore to come back every time he was in town.

As is my nature, I am always looking for improvements or equally respectable alternatives to classic drinks. Despite its wonderful equation, I contemplated if the negroni could be improved. Our chef, Dax had given me a red wine, balsamic vinegar syrup earlier in the week that he had been playing with, and I thought it would make an ideal substitution for sweet vermouth in the negroni. The drink was outstanding! While a little sweeter than a traditional Negroni, rebalancing the drink by using larger portions of gin and Campari made a perfect cocktail. I’m not saying that the syrup is even close to the bottled magic of Vya, but a good change from time to time is always welcome.

To make the syrup just use a red wine instead of water and make a simple syrup, which is just equal parts sugar and water heated over the stove until the sugar has dissolved. In this case, also add some balsalmic vinegar to taste. It is that easy and really makes a distinct cocktail ingredient. I like drinking this syrup with soda water as well. You don’t need to use your best French treasure; just pick a cheaper basic red wine. Here’s how I used it in my twist on the negroni:

Negroni

1 oz Gin
1 oz Campari
1 oz Sweet Vermouth
1 Orange Slice

Shake and strain into a cocktail glass or serve on the rocks. Garnish with an orange slice.

“Megroni”

1 ¼ oz Gin (use a bolder more traditional gin)
1 ¼ oz Campari
½ oz Red Wine Balsalmic Syrup
1 Orange Slice

Shake and strain into a cocktail glass or serve on the rocks. Garnish with an orange slice.

The Negroni is a wonderful drink, and I really think that this approach has some potential as well. Is it the going to reach the enduring status of its inspiration? Probably not, but if you’re feeling creative, give it a try. If you find yourself at a bar where this isn’t an option, ask for a Negroni. Just make sure it is your turn.

North Shore Gin No. 6 – The Bartender’s Gin

The legacy of Teddy Roosevelt is littered with contradictions, yet his hypocrisy was most blatant towards alcohol. A devoted absinthe drinker, Teddy seemed to enjoy the pleasures of a drink. However, having learned his lesson one night after consuming too much, he swore to never drink in excess again. According to all accounts, Teddy fulfilled this promise. It was absinthe after all. Despite his lifelong love for the green fairy, Roosevelt campaigned for the prohibition of alcohol since his political career began in New York. Nevertheless, Teddy’s Rough Riders and the Spanish American War are inextricably linked to the Cuba Libre and an increased interest in rum among Americans during this period. This contradictive history hardly suggests how Teddy and his big stick would react to the modern world of alcohol. However, one thing is certain - Teddy Roosevelt would be pissed!

The most important impact of Roosevelt’s political career was his defiance of large corporations. The ongoing purchasing of smaller distilleries by large corporation has become the single greatest threat to the micro-distillery movement that is critical to the reinvigorated interest in cocktails. While the growth of micro-distilleries appears to be duplicating the microbrewery movement, the critical difference between these two industries appears to be that most breweries have relished in their independence, while many smaller distilleries seem to be established for the intended purpose of selling to a larger corporation. This trend has been particularly common among tequila producers in Jalisco and Russian vodka companies, each which have ended in disastrous results (please read my posts on the tequila industry and Russian vodka industry for more information). While it is difficult to fault larger corporations for acting appropriately and with good business sense, the impact of acquisition has influenced the quality of many spirits. Other producers have been redirect towards popular trends that defiantly contradict past traditions, diminishing any previous imagination and creativity. The pillar of innovation in this global takeover remains the independent distillery.

It is important that those of us who value quality spirits that push the boundaries of the industry in positive manner show support for smaller companies. This activism does not mean that you should never drink and Tanqueray and tonic again, but these circumstances do demand that when a quality independent product is developed, support needs to be shown. Conversation and grassroots support remain the most critical component of the success of these distilleries in a heavily advertised commercial market. Relying on others to provide this publicity can only result in the failure of this entrepreneurial spirit.

One of the many distilleries nationwide producing amazing spirits is the North Shore Disillery, located near Chicago in Lake Bluff, Illinois. Founded by Derek and Sonja Kassebaum, this distillery has developed several wonderful products which will impress anyone who appreciates quality spirits. Here is a list of the spirits that North Shore produces:

Gin –
Distiller’s Gin No. 6
No. 6 Mingled with Dates
No. 6 Mingled with Ceylon Tea
Distiller’s Gin No. 11

Vodka –
North Shore Vodka
Tahitian Vanilla Vodka

Artisan Collection –
Aquavit - Private Reserve

The list speaks for itself. The list of gins alone is intriguing enough. Distiller’s Gin No. 6 is in my opinion one of the best on the market, yet the infusion of their gin with dates and Ceylon tea is a first for the industry. Not only are they pioneering the infusion of gin, but the choices of dates and Ceylon tea provides a unique product that cannot be found in any other spirit. Aside from making new flavors available to mixologists, Distiller’s Gin No. 11 is produce solely for restaurants and bars and is not available in stores, emphasizing a relationship between the distillery and any bartenders willing to try and talk about a great product. The vanilla vodka infusion is the best on the market, hands-down no questions asked, but my favorite product made by North Shore is the Aquavit. I wrote a whole post on how much I love this stuff – check it out! I know that there a bunch of quality independent distilleries out there, but I can’t think of one that produces such diverse and consistent line of quality spirits.

The one product that needs to get more attention however is Distiller’s Gin No. 6. Many bartenders really seem hyped up on Hendrick’s (I love it too), but Hendrick’s lack a critical spice dimension that prevents it from exhibiting all of the best characteristics of gin. Nevertheless, as part of the non-traditional gin movement, Hendrick’s popularity is based largely on its ability to inspire new uses in cocktails. North Shore has similar characteristics and makes some amazing cocktails, but it adds the spice dimension that Hendrick’s lacks. Additionally, unlike other newer gins, the use of citrus fruit is not too dominant. Citrus fruit should be a crucial component in any gin, but stressing citrus too much threatens the spectrum of flavors that a gin exhibits. I get some lime out of No. 6, but the juniper remains the backbone of the gin and serves a foundation for other elements (another principle that new wave gins often violate to their own detriment). The herbal properties of the gin are excellent, but as with Hendrick’s, the floral components are really distinguishing. The cardamom and lavender particularly stand out. The spice elements are magnificent as well; cinnamon is emphasized in this gin with excellent results. I love this gin and drink it neat all the time. The finish of the gin is unlike any other and focuses on the floral and peppery properties of the gin.

Despite specifically targeting bartenders through Distiller’s Gin No. 11, I think that Gin No. 6 is an amazing mixing gin. The diverse flavors work so well in so many cocktails, but their equal balance allows for certain elements to impact cocktails individually. A martini made with North Shore is my favorite, as I mentioned in the “9,204 REAL Martinis and Counting…” post, but I have tried this gin in several classic cocktails and really found these to work well:

The Bebbo Cocktail

1 ½ oz North Shore Gin No. 6
1 oz Lemon Juice
½ oz Honey
2 Teaspoons Orange Juice
1 Maraschino Cherry for Garnsih

Stir all the ingredients together without ice until the honey dissolves. The honey dissolves quicker if its viscosity is lessened through heating. After this process, shake the ingredients with ice and strain into a cocktail glass.

This cocktail was saved from extinction by Dr. Cocktail (Ted Haigh) in Vintage Spirits and Forgotten Cocktails and is a variation of the Bee’s Knees Cocktail, which does not include the OJ. The gin works so well with the honey and really makes this drink reach the next level!

The Aviation

2 oz North Shore Gin No. 6
1/4 oz Maraschino Liqueur
½ oz Lemon Juice
Shake all the ingredients and strain into a cocktail glass.

This drink is usually made with a more traditional, juniper propaganda-styled gin, but because the juniper is still very active in North Shore it still works well here. I also cut back on the Maraschino Liqueur for two reasons. First, I use Stock because it is most available, and the dryness of Stock works better in a lesser quantity here (this Aviation tip came from Gary Regan in The Joy of Mixology). Also, the Maraschino Liqueur can dominate some of the more subtle properties of the gin if too much is used.

Shores Up North

2 oz North Shore Gin No. 6
½ oz Ginger Syrup
½ oz Lime Juice
Tonic Water
8 Mint Leaves
Lime Wheel for Garnish
Mint Sprig for Garnish

Muddle the mint leaves in the base of a tall glass with the ginger syrup. Fill the glass with ice and add the lime juice and the gin. Top the glass with tonic water and pour the drink into a shaker. Stir gently (don’t agitate the tonic and flatten it) but thoroughly. Strain into a an ice filled glass and garnish with the lime wheel and mint sprig.

I like this drink and made it after messing around with the Ginger Rogers in Jeff Hollinger and Rob Schwartz’s The Art of the Bar. I was going to make a Ginger Rogers, but I didn’t realize I had depleted all of my homemade ginger beer until it was too late. Not that it would have mattered; I was out of siphon cartridges as well, so I couldn’t even do a blander soda substitute. All I had was bottled tonic water, but the drink was awesome. I liked it so much I keep making it unaltered, tonic water and all! This is one of my favorites, and I have been drinking it frequently in this Houston heat!

Update: After the comments made about Audrey Saunders’ drink the Gin Gin Mule, it became apparent that her drink was strikingly similar to the drink I had made out of necessity and lack of ingredients. Here is her recipe:

 

Gin Gin Mule

½ oz Lime Juice
½ oz Simple Syrup
6 Mint Sprigs
¾ oz Ginger Beer
1 ½ oz Gin
Splash Soda Water
Lime Wedge for Garnish

Muddle the lime juice, syrup, and mint. Add gin and ginger beer and shake well. Pour over ice in a highball glass. Top with soda and garnish with the lime wedge. From Dale DeGroff’s The Craft of the Cocktail.

 

Try these drinks and the gin; you won’t be disappointed. I rarely give a complete endorsement to a single company or brand, but the North Shore Distillery not only deserves it, they belong to a group of companies that need community interest. North Shore is still predominantly available in Chicago and surrounding areas, but their website has information on how you can get your hands on some. North Shore Gin No. 6 is is featured in this post because the online community needs to provide more support for these types of products. Relying on the industry is insufficient. While gaining positive reviews from several sources, the North Shore company was underappreciated at the San Francisco Spirits Competition, receiving only a Bronze Medal. While some independent distilleries were treated more fairly at the competition, the SFSC was again used to exhibit larger brands and provide commercial opportunities for larger spirits (check out my post on the lack of objectivity of this “competition”). This is the most blatant example of why independent distilleries need more grassroots assistance. Try the gin, mix the gin, but above all, talk about it. Clearly, North Shore and others rely upon individuals and objectivity for their ongoing success. But, what is often ignored is that the industry as a whole relies upon companies like North Shore for innovation and evolution. Teddy would agree. Who knows - maybe he would raise a glass too.