The Margarita Alternative: El Diablo Cocktail

The measure of a good bartender for the majority of eager patrons in Texas is the margarita. This standard is generally unfair as the criteria for the most classic of tequila cocktails is constantly under attack from inferior orange liqueurs like Patron Citronge, this month’s “best margarita mix”, and the notorious frozen varietal. With such a wide spectrum of margarita preferences, it is anyone’s guess what the guest staring at me from across the bar is requesting. I’m hoping that they are going to appreciate the bold, yet refreshing, balance of tequila, Cointreau, and fresh lime juice in a true margarita. But, this being Texas and all, home of the machined margarita, the future is very uncertain. So, I’ve started avoiding the margarita altogether; instead, I opt for another wonderful tequila cocktail with similar characteristics: El Diablo.

Spring’s grasp on Houston is in full affect at this point, so revisiting the lighter seasonal drinks of a year ago has become a priority. Fortunately, this week’s Mixology Monday topic of fruit liqueurs is a perfect opportunity. The Diablo is, to my knowledge, first documented in Trader Vic’s Book of Food and Drink (1946) as the Mexican El Diablo, and it uses crème de cassis brilliantly:

“Mexican El Diablo

1/2 lime
1 ounce tequila
1/2 crème de cassis
Ginger Ale

Squeeze lime juice into a 10-ounce glass; drop in spent shell. Add ice cubes, tequila, and crème de cassis. Fill glass with ginger ale.”

Some of my older books are at the bar right now, and I don’t have them in front of me. So if anyone has an earlier source, please let me know. I actually only have Trader Vic’s Bartender’s Guide, Revised (1947), but other sources say that Trader Vic first listed this recipe in the 1946 publication. Either way, the daunting name of El Diablo, which means “The Devil”, certainly doesn’t live up to its name. The crème de cassis and ginger beer make this tequila option extremely refreshing, certain to please any margarita lover. What I enjoy most about this cocktail is the diversity of flavors. The traditional characteristics of tequila work so well with the fruity currant element of the crème de cassis, the spiced dimensions of the ginger beer, and the acidic component provided by the lime.

To help this cocktail reach its full potential, however, the original recipe should be updated slightly. Instead of squeezing half a lime, use half an ounce. More tequila is always a plus; up the portion here to one and half ounces. Additionally, I don’t rely on filling the glass to determine how much ginger ale goes into the drink; measure the ginger ale and use one ounce only. Choosing tequila brands here is pretty basic, as a solid blanco tequila will do, but being picky with the crème de cassis is a wise choice here. There isn’t a better option than Marie Brizard Crème de Cassis Bourdeaux in my opinion. Finally, don’t use a generic ginger ale; make your own ginger beer or pick out a quality bottled brand. Now, that’s better; try this one out:

El Diablo

1 1/2 oz Tequila (Don Julio Blanco)
1/2 oz Crème de Cassis (Marie Brizard)
1/2 oz Lime Juice
1 oz Ginger Beer

Shake the tequila, crème de cassis, and lime juice with ice and strain into an ice-filled rocks glass. Top with the ginger beer and garnish with a lime. Consider this option whenever ordering a margarita in the future.

I am glad that this week’s Mixology Monday topic coincided with the oncoming spring season so well. This part of the year, more than any other, is such a creative time because of the availability of fresh, seasonal fruits and the persistent desire for refreshing cocktails. The Diablo is one of my favorite refreshing cocktails because it maintains a respectable level of complexity while offering an alternative to far too common drinks, like the margarita. If you’re searching for more drinks with fruit liqueurs, be sure to check out this week’s Mixology Monday host, Morsels and Musings for a list of everyone’s posts.

Tequila and the Rise of Sotol

Latin spirits are all the rage these days, and tequila started it all. While everyone else may have switched to seasonal drinks, Houston has seen 80 degrees five of the past six days. It still feels like spring here, and I’ve consequently had trouble shifting gears like I used to in Illinois. Texas seems to experience the same difficultly and has a tendency to remain one dimensional with its drinks. One drink that is, the Margarita.

The margarita; everyone makes them differently, and like some twisted unspoken competition, everyone makes theirs the best. This might be because it is a pretty hard to drink to mess up. Bragging about a margarita, unless it is something really interesting (hopefully my Mayahuel Fizz qualifies), is like a toddler showing off some scribbles in a coloring book. Sometimes, I just want tell these Tex-Mex restaurants, “That’s a pretty salted picture there honey, now can you please run along and get Daddy a nice Negroni.” But, I guess I’ll keep downing the “case-a-dillas” instead. Read more

Cocktail Causes: Better Tequila = Better Environment

According to myth, the Aztec goddess Mayahuel was inspired to create tequila after watching a mouse become intoxicated after consuming agave. By crafting the spirit, Mayahuel became known as the goddess of agave. However, this bit of tequila trivia ignores Mayahuel’s most prominent role in Aztec mythology; Mayahuel was also known as the goddess of fertility. Unfortunately, ignoring the relationship between tequila and fertility seems to be an ongoing problem.

The devastating fungus called fusarium, which swept through Jalisco nearly a decade ago damaging almost a third of agave plants at a time when demand for tequila was reaching unprecedented levels, remains an enormous threat to the industry. The crisis caused a shift in how tequila was produced. The financial strain made it difficult for independent distillers to continue to make tequila; instead, they were forced to sell their property to major corporations which often focused on quantity over quality. Recognizing increased demand for tequila amid shortages of blue agave, which can take up to 12 years to fully mature, many companies began purchasing other types of magueys, wild varieties of agave that grow in places such as Guerrero. The result was a decrease in biodiversity; whereby, these maguey plants became threatened by the consumption of the industry and shoot development became more common. Additionally, the practice of growing agave from shoots, not fertilization, created circumstances that increased agave’s vulnerability to fusarium.

These circumstances can be seen on the shelves of your local liquor store. The finest tequilas are made from 100% blue agave; however, most tequilas are “mixto”, meaning they may be made from only 51% agave. These tequilas frequently import other magueys to supplement blue agave, creating cheaper tequilas which are most cost effective for consumers and producers. Even the some most respected of tequilas, such as Jimador, have made the switch from 100% agave. While the number of available 100% agave brands has grown and mixto tequila brands have slightly decreased, the amount of mixto being produced by these companies is climbing every year. Sadly, the booming mixto market has increased the stress on agave production and created circumstances in which a repeat of the infamous shortage is very possible.

Fortunately, the increased environmental consciousness in which 65 percent of Americans report trying at least one organic product and 10 percent consume organics weekly has created a demand for organic products in unexpected industries. Recently, vodkas, such as Square One and Liquid Ice, have emerged to meet this demand, yet the amount of organic tequilas remains extremely limited. Nevertheless, alternatives do exist. 4 Copas produces a 100% blanco, reposado, and anejo tequila which is completely organic. Distirbution of this tequila is most widespread in California, but recent success at international competitions may encourage increased distribution.

If 4 Copas is not an option, minimally, consumers should try to purchase 100% agave tequilas over mixtos. These tequilas still commonly come from shoots, but purchasing these productss reduces threats to biodiversity from the practice of importing wild maguey plants. Additionally, these tequilas just taste better! Of these brands, Sauza and Herradura are investigating ways to turn waste products from production into bioplastics and alternative energy sources.

The connection between Mayahuel’s role as goddess of agave and fertility may seem to be an unusual relationship. However, the need to consider the role of biodiversity and organic production in the tequila industry cannot be underestimated. Advocating change for a better product and healthier environment must begin with consumers. The world of cocktail enthusiasts is aware of how to choose tequila for quality, but the everyday consumer generally chooses a popular or cheaper brand. Educating these individuals is the responsibility of those who are aware of these differences. By taking any opportunity to do so through blogging or by taking additional time to explain products to your customers at the bar, interpersonal interaction can help to improve what is quickly becoming the world’s next fine spirit.