Carpano Punt E Mes
April 19, 2008
I consider one of my purposes in life to introduce Campari to as many people as possible. I just think you should try and make a difference in the world before you go. But, helping people to appreciate Campari is kind of like teaching a child to play catch. You know you’re going to hit them in the face, but this is something they need to learn so they can enjoy future experiences. Similarly, it can be difficult to lead someone down the pathway towards Campari as bitterness is often a powerful and distinct flavor. So, I start with a softer ball of bitterness, Punt E Mes.
Punt E Mes is a type of Italian vermouth that has a bitter component similar to Campari. Punt E Mes, which literally translates to “point and a half”, was named after a stock market jump which was commemorated through the Italian aperitif. The bitter qualities of this delicious libation basically add another dimension to a traditional, bold sweet vermouth. This can, when used correctly, form a more complex structure in cocktails as well.
If you like trying different types of vermouth instead of settling for everyday staples, I would strongly recommend picking up a bottle of Punt E Mes to play with in your favorite cocktails calling for sweet vermouth. This approach helps to demonstrate the unique qualities of Punt E Mes because there is an established standard for comparison between the newly created cocktail and the standard recipe. If you want to try a cocktail that calls for Punt E Mes; check this one out (from Sammy Ross of Milk and Honey I think):
Red Hook
2 oz Rye
1/2 Punt E Mes
1/2 Maraschino Liqueur (Luxardo)
Stir and strain into a cocktail glass. Garnish with an orange twist.
The Red Hook (not to be confused with a brewery that was once making good beers before being bought by the beer leviathan, A.B.) is one of those outstanding cocktails that carefully utilizes each ingredient in a manner that is extremely well-balanced, despite its varied spectrum of flavors. The bitterness in the Punt E Mes is held in check by the sweetness in the maraschino; essentially, you get an awesome cocktail similar to the Manhattan with a wider spectrum of flavors. I like to also add 2 dashes of Regan’s Orange Bitters and 1 dash of Angostura to my Red Hooks. I find that like Campari, small amounts of orange flavors compliment the bitterness in Punt E Mes extremely well.
Punt E Mes is one of those ingredients that is overlooked far too often by cocktail enthusiasts. It adds an entirely different dimension when used in cocktails, that otherwise would lack a bitter component. My ongoing efforts to share the beauty of Campari with the world may not appear to be the most noble of pursuits, but man, it is soooo good. You’ve just got to want to share it with people if you have a humanitarian bone in you.
Unfortunately, my approach of using Punt E Mes as a gateway aperitif is a bit unfair to the vermouth. Punt E Mes shouldn’t just be a Campari sidekick. Actually, they are very distinct, and, aside from their bitter elements, don’t really have all that much in common. Punt E Mes is independently a wonderful ingredient that needs to be used for its precise makeup. Perhaps, it is ignored because of people like me opting for Campari too often. This is a grave mistake that is destroying the possibility for countless great cocktails with less focus on bitterness. Ok, new mission, share the Punt E Mes with the world.
A Tale of Frat Guys, Campari, and the Negroni
August 4, 2007
I am an enormous fan of the Negroni. I get cravings for one drink or another from time to time, but no other drink beckons my inner cocktailian like the perfect combination of sweet vermouth, gin, and Campari. The flavors are best demonstrated when served up, but I love my Negronis on the rocks and enjoy the transition from bold to calm. My first Negroni experience was awful. I had this bottle of Campari I didn’t know what to do with, and like a pacifist firing a gun for the first time, was kicked by the strength of the Campari.
I remembered this feeling distinctly when last week a couple of frat guys interrupted me as I was greeting a new bar guest. “Hey bartender; we need a shot now!” Apparently, the time period it would have taken to make one cocktail for someone who had arrived at the bar first was too long to endure before they continued to treat their stomachs and livers like they were mortal enemies.
“What can I get you guys?” My bar guest gave me a look that told me that it was okay to take care of them so we could continue our conversation about authentic cocktails before reaching a liquid decision. Non-verbal bar communication is like a universal magical device used by bartenders and favorite patrons that tells each participant that everything is going to be okay; I’ve got you in mind at all times.
Frat guys obviously aren’t aware of the non-verbal aspects of the bar. “Whatever man; just give us something you like.”
“You want it neat?” I asked, hoping they would grant me unrestricted freedom to demonstrate why disrespecting the bartender and other guests is always an unwise act.
Still trying to grasp the concept of the term “neat”, Mr. Popped Collar finally said “sure.”
“Wonderful; have you guys ever had Campari?”
“No, let’s do it!”
Campari is kind of an acquired taste. I was overwhelmed by my first negroni (which was also my first Campari venture) and swore I would never have another, but the next day I couldn’t deny this inner urge and found myself shaking the classic again. By the end of the week, I had a new favorite drink. That was a few years ago. These guys were Campari rookies, and I wasn’t going to give them the luxury of having it mixed. Warm Campari it was!
“It tastes like tree bark! Man, what was that? That was the worst thing I have ever had in my life! Can I have a drink of water?”
“Sorry, guys; give me a second while I take care of this guy’s cocktail.” I betted that they were wishing they had waited earlier instead of having to wait now.
“You gave us a gag shot; we wanted something you would actually drink.”
“Guys, I love Campari, and so does everybody else.” I gestered to the glass I held and passed the negroni to my patient guest who I had come to know as Mark. After asking Mark if there was anything else I could get him, I made a couple of waters. Mark loved his negroni and swore to come back every time he was in town.
As is my nature, I am always looking for improvements or equally respectable alternatives to classic drinks. Despite its wonderful equation, I contemplated if the negroni could be improved. Our chef, Dax had given me a red wine, balsamic vinegar syrup earlier in the week that he had been playing with, and I thought it would make an ideal substitution for sweet vermouth in the negroni. The drink was outstanding! While a little sweeter than a traditional Negroni, rebalancing the drink by using larger portions of gin and Campari made a perfect cocktail. I’m not saying that the syrup is even close to the bottled magic of Vya, but a good change from time to time is always welcome.
To make the syrup just use a red wine instead of water and make a simple syrup, which is just equal parts sugar and water heated over the stove until the sugar has dissolved. In this case, also add some balsalmic vinegar to taste. It is that easy and really makes a distinct cocktail ingredient. I like drinking this syrup with soda water as well. You don’t need to use your best French treasure; just pick a cheaper basic red wine. Here’s how I used it in my twist on the negroni:
Negroni
1 oz Gin
1 oz Campari
1 oz Sweet Vermouth
1
Shake and strain into a cocktail glass or serve on the rocks. Garnish with an orange slice.
“Megroni”
1 ¼ oz Gin (use a bolder more traditional gin)
1 ¼ oz Campari
½ oz Red Wine Balsalmic Syrup
1
The Negroni is a wonderful drink, and I really think that this approach has some potential as well. Is it the going to reach the enduring status of its inspiration? Probably not, but if you’re feeling creative, give it a try. If you find yourself at a bar where this isn’t an option, ask for a Negroni. Just make sure it is your turn.
