A LOVE AFFAIR WITH AMARI

While familiar with Amaro before working at Anvil, the unusually large selection at the bar exposed me to different brands that I had not had before. I found these to be very interesting in flavor and quickly became enthralled with drinking these wonderful liqueurs. In my introductory post to Drink Dogma, I thought I would offer a bit of history about some of these brands and a few recipes featuring some of my favorites.

Note from Bobby Heugel: This is the first post from Anvil Bar & Refuge bartender, Matt Tanner. Matt joined the Anvil staff late last year and is evolving into a cocktail wizard behind the bar. Some of his cocktails will be featured on our upcoming menu, which will be released shortly. Matt bartends on Fridays, Saturdays, and Sundays at Anvil. Come visit some of Houston’s new talent and let Matt make you a drink…with or without Amari.

Amari (plural for Amaro), in Italian, means bitter. All Amari live up to this basic description, but while being bitter, they are also in respect semi-sweet, herbal, floral, citric, and deliciously full flavored! Each brand however is unique and uses specific ingredients to obtain their signature flavor profiles.

FERNET-BRANCA

In 1845, Bernardino Branca, a self-taught apothecary in Milan, first offered Fernet-Branca to the public as a tonic to cure many illnesses. Over time, with the backing of revolutionary advertising strategies and company transitions, Fernet-Branca became a favorite of both the sick and healthy. From 1932 (some say 1934) until 1978, Dr. Zempliner (can’t find his first name anywhere) imported Fernet-Branca in wooden barrels to a warehouse in New York and sold it as a medicinal tonic to avoid higher taxes applied to sale of alcoholic beverages. In 1978, the FDA came down on Zempliner and ruled that if Fernet-Branca was going to be marketed as medicine then it would have to be regulated as medicine. The importing of Fernet-Branca immediately stopped, although the Branca Family retained possession of the warehouse in Tribeca, New York. In 1998, a gentleman by the name of Aurelien de Seze, began importing Fernet-Branca back into the U.S. through association with the Branca family which still owns the company to this day.

FERNET COCKTAIL
(Based on a recipe from The Savoy Cocktail Book)

1 ½ oz Beefeater Gin
¾ oz Fernet-Branca
¾ oz Punt e Mes

Stir with ice and strain into a cocktail glass.

This beautiful dark amber spirit is made through an infusion of various herbs and spices; the young Fernet is then aged in oak barrels for at least one year. Known spices and herbs in fernet are: myrrh, chamomile, cardamom, aloe, and saffron. Rumored spices that may be included are: rhubarb, cinchona bark from South America ,gentian root, wormwood, bay leaves, sage, peppermint oil, the ginger-like spices galanga and zedoary.

GOLDEN GATE SWIZZLE
(Matt Tanner, Anvil Bar & Refuge)

1 ½ oz Fernet-Branca
1 oz Lemon Juice
1 oz Orgeat
¼ oz John D. Taylor’s Velvet Falernum
¼ oz Angostura Orange Bitters
4 Dashes Angostura Bitters

Combine all ingredients in a Collins glass filled with crushed ice and swizzle until frost forms on the outside of the glass and cocktail is sufficiently mixed. Garnish with a large bouquet of pressed mint and a slice of orange.

Many cultures enjoy drinking this Amaro in various ways, but in San Francisco and other American cities that have established cocktail scenes, many opt for a more modern approach. Fernet is taken as a shot and is often followed by a chaser of ginger ale. This tends to occur behind bars out of site of guests waiting for cocktails. Alternatively, in Argentina for example, it is enjoyed over ice with coke. As for those of us at Anvil, we generally just shoot Fernet-Branca with no chaser because we are real drinkers – though we will make sure you get your drink first and never do so in front of Bobby or Kevin.

Despite this simple approach, Fernet makes great cocktails. Here is one last cocktail that will help you to enjoy Fernet-Branca:

BERNARDINO SOUR
(Matt Tanner, Anvil Bar & Refuge)

2 oz Fernet-Branca
1 oz Lemon Juice
½ oz Grade-A Maple Syrup
1 Egg White
2 Dashes Angostura Bitters

Shake all ingredients except Angostura bitters hard with until cocktail fully expands and pour into a highball or similar glass without ice. Garnish with two dashes of Angostura bitters on top and a mint leaf.

CYNAR

Unfortunately, there is no solid recorded history of who first created or launched this Amaro, but we know it was launched in 1952 and is currently owned by Groupo Compari. Cynar is a pleasant and refreshing herbal spirit that is comprised of thirteen herbs and spices, of which, the main one is artichoke. It is also not as overwhelming as Fernet, so if someone can handle the artichoke nature of the liqueur, is much more mild. In this manner, I find Cynar to be a nice introduction to Amaro. Cynar and soda tends is one of my personal favorite cocktails after a long shift at work or if I can find a bar that carries it, which is a rarity in Houston. This usually ends poorly, however, as I find that I can’t help myself and drink as much of the bottle as I can.

PIMMS ITALIANO
(Essential Cocktail, Dale Degroff)

1 ½ oz Pimms No. 1
½ oz Cynar
¼” Tick Slice of Cucumber

In Collins glass, muddle a ¼” slice of cucumber. Top with Cynar and Pimm’s; add ice and fill with tonic water.

AVERNA

The Averna story starts in 1859 with company founder Salvatore Averna. Salvatore got his secret recipe from Benedictine Friars in the San Spirito’s Abbey in Caltanissetta Sicily, where it was being used as an herbal tonic. Salvatore was born into a well-off family of textile merchants and was an extremely active member in the community; the recipe was given to him as a gift from the Friars. The recipe was then handed down to his son, Francesco Averna, who saw the potential of the tonic to be sold to the public. He presented the tonic at many fairs abroad as well as in Italy. To this day the recipe has not been changed or altered – a feat that many spirit companies are having trouble achieving recently. Averna is made by infusing various herbs, roots, and spices before being sweetened with caramel.

THE BRAVE
(Bobby Heugel, Anvil Bar & Refuge)

1 oz Del Maguey Chicicapa Mezcal
1 oz Hacienda del Sotol Plata
½ oz Averna
1 Barspoon Orange Curacao
3 Dashes Angostura Bitters

Swirl the bitters throughout in a Bordeaux-style wine glass. Pour other ingredients on top at room temperature and swirl throughout. Garnish with a flamed orange zest.

There are countless other ways to enjoy Amari, and there are many other more obscure brands waiting to be used in cocktails or appreciated alone. They are perhaps one of the most under-appreciated liqueurs distributed in the U.S. and need more fans outside of cocktail freaks and those of us who enjoy shooting them behind the bar when nobody is looking.

13 Responses to “A LOVE AFFAIR WITH AMARI”

  1. Matt, thanks for the info on these Amari.

    I suppose I hadn’t researched it, but had no idea that it was only recently (well, 12 years ago) that Fernet Branca started coming back into the states.

    I’d love to hear more info on Fernet as a class or category of Amaro (Luxardo has a Fernet, and others).

    I do a shot of chilled Fernet after every shift. It’s just the thing to make you wake up feeling good, or at least a bit minty.

  2. Matt Tanner says:

    Blair, Your very welcome! I am still going to look up information on amaro, there are some many out there and the information is so limited!!! We often have fernet after our shifts at Anvil as well it totally make you feel better after taking it!

  3. Jude Chauvin says:

    Matt,

    Thanks for these new ideas. My favorite cocktail of late is a Cynar and Rum drink called the Art of Choke. When I visited Anvil, Bobby told me to go to Cure when I got home to New Orleans and try it. I’ve been wondering what else to do with Cynar. I can’t wait to try this Pimm’s variation now that the weather is warming up.

  4. Tiare says:

    Great post, i LOVE amaris and this weekend i`m gonna make the Golden gate swizzle totally.

    I use fernet every now and then, its good for stomach pain as well.

  5. Geralyn Graham says:

    Matt, I really enjoyed finding out the history of these spirits which I totally love and give the blanket name of “medicinal” [doesn’t sound good to anyone but me, I know].

    For those H-town readers who think they hate Fernet Branca and are wondering what the heck Falernum is, check out Matt’s Golden Gate Swizzle. Delicious, refreshing, and a perfect example of how a group of ingredients come together to form a delicious something new.

  6. Matt Tanner says:

    Jude- that cocktail sounds like its great…2 things I love rum and cynar! I believe you will really enjoy the pimms italiano,its extremely refreshing!

    Taire-Thank you! i hope you enjoy your golden gate swizzle this weekend! let me know what you think!

  7. Foodtease says:

    Thanks for the rundown and recipes! I love Cynar, was just introduced to it this year. Bitters are the best, i’ve started making my own at home recently and they’ve been turning out great.

    Excited to check out Anvil next time we’re in Houston!

  8. Dramnut says:

    Thanks for all the great info and recipes Matt… I look forward to trying them out. I have been an Amaro fan ever since a trip to Italy where I found that it was the perfect way to deal with the massive overeating I was doing. A generous shot of Amaro (usually Amaro Siciliano or something similar if I’m remembering right) after a big meal would keep me from having too rough a night.

    I just picked up a bottle of Amaro Nonino a couple of weeks back and it has become a favorite before-bed drink. If you haven’t tried it yet I highly recommend it.

  9. scuba_sm says:

    I’m happy to see Drink Dogma updating again! I may have to grab the ingredients for a Pimms Italiano for after finals, as I’m a bit too far to visit the Anvil.

  10. steph says:

    I’m a fellow amari lover and have just recently begun experimenting with them – mostly Fernet Branca and Averna. The depth and complexity they can give to a drink is unmatched. I’ve been posting about them a few times lately but it’s hard to get people interested just by reading about them….In the mean time I will just keep throwing drinks out there, some of my own and also recipes I find that I like. If you don’t mind, I may post some of yours, with full credit of course. I can’t wait to come to H town again to visit Anvil and try more of these.

  11. Matt Tanner says:

    Foodtease- Cynar is an ecxellent spirit to enjoy! Hope we see you soon in at Anvil, and keep us updated on what kind of bitters you are playing around with!

    Dramnut-I have had Amaro Nonino, I think its wonderful to have after a nice big meal! I wanted to write about it, but I could not find enough information on it to accrately give the history of it!

    Scuba_sm- when picking out tonic be sure to use a nice tonic like Q tonic or Fever tree. The pimms italiano is a great refreshing cocktail for spring and summer.

    Steph- People will eventully catch onto amaro, its about finding drinks that will ease them into the intense flavor they have I find the art of choke at Cure in New Olreans is a great cocktail that can really get guest introduced to cynar. You can absoultely post up some of the recipes!

  12. Beautiful vocabulary! Inspiring pro each one

  13. Josh T says:

    I’ve always been into Amari started off drinking Amaro Averna then gradually got into more. I know there are hundreds and i always am excited when i discover a new one. Found a good site that lists a bunch ive never heard of
    zeppachino

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